Technical questions for the MPC2000xl and the MPC2000
User avatar
By locotesmjr Tue Jul 19, 2011 2:46 pm
scsicardreaders.com wrote:I already posted a link for those in the US (it may be good worldwide as well).

Here it is again:

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... 688-SKHHAL

They are 22 cents each here. :D I buy from mouser.com all the time - they have good products and fast shipping.


I just checked this site and if you order 100 pieces you pay only $0.08 each! that's 8 bucks for 100 pieces vs. 8 bucks a PIECE from MPCstuff!!, besides those are the ALPS brand which JVC mentioned being top brands! so you can't get better quality for the price!! I just placed my order!
By JVC Tue Jul 19, 2011 4:19 pm
I'm glad you found the right parts. I suppose you know how to solder already.
Hard part is desoldering and remove old switches, it is more difficult than soldering new switches. You should have solder sucker and solder wicks already. If you haven't done desoldering before, you should practice on your broken electronics, before try on your MPC!

Good read:
http://www.aaroncake.net/electronics/desolder.htm

There are some YouTube videos that shows how to desolder as well.

I've just replaced all the switches on M-Audio Quattro USB audio interface. (I posted the part number on the other thread, if you are interested.)
It is very rewarding to replace parts. Saves money too.
User avatar
By locotesmjr Tue Jul 19, 2011 5:10 pm
^^ Yeah bro, I did this before on my SP-505, but I really appreciate your help... I have all the tools to get this job done...
in another note, could you help me finding the right part to replace the LED's? since I'm going to be doing some work in my MP already could be nice if I take advantage and replace the green for some white or blue leds...
Thanks in advance!
By JVC Tue Jul 19, 2011 6:12 pm
locotesmjr wrote:^^ Yeah bro, I did this before on my SP-505, but I really appreciate your help... I have all the tools to get this job done...
in another note, could you help me finding the right part to replace the LED's? since I'm going to be doing some work in my MP already could be nice if I take advantage and replace the green for some white or blue leds...
Thanks in advance!


I think they are common 5mm (could be 3mm) round green LEDs, 10mA or 20mA. You'll have to measure the dimensions. Check ebay for LEDs.

I like green LEDs or red LEDs, since it is easy on my eyes. Personally, I don't recommend using blue LEDs, the blue light will annoy you eventually.

These days, high-bright blue LEDs are used everywhere, and I often cover them with masking tape to diffuse the light.

This reminds me, when I saw Roger Linn's Tempest drum machine's pads glowing with blue LEDs, I was like "no, don't use blue LEDs! Use warm white LEDs instead!"
User avatar
By locotesmjr Tue Jul 19, 2011 6:54 pm
JVC wrote:
I think they are common 5mm (could be 3mm) round green LEDs, 10mA or 20mA. You'll have to measure the dimensions. Check ebay for LEDs.



I just found the service manual, it doesn't have the LED info but it has the part number so I google it and the only information that I could find was this:

3mm Pure Green ColDiff Radial Top view

But no info about mA, operating voltage or Luminous intensity... I checked on mouser.com and they do not have 10 or 20mA in white ones... smaller is 25mA, should work?
By JVC Tue Jul 19, 2011 7:41 pm
locotesmjr wrote:I just found the service manual, it doesn't have the LED info but it has the part number so I google it and the only information that I could find was this:

3mm Pure Green ColDiff Radial Top view

But no info about mA, operating voltage or Luminous intensity... I checked on mouser.com and they do not have 10 or 20mA in white ones... smaller is 25mA, should work?

It might work, but the white LED's forward current is most likely higher than red or green LEDs of same size.
Since I don't know what forward current the original green LEDs that you are trying to replace, it is hard to tell whether it is going to work or not, not my bet is it'll lit, but it may not be optimum light output, because the voltage might be lower than ideal.
And, since the LEDs is just indicator, they need not to be super bright.

If you really want to find out the forward current, this is good tool; LED Tester:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-st ... TER/1.html

Remove the green LED from MPC and test the current with the tester.

Mouser is great, but I think you can find the same LEDs cheaper on ebay, since the LEDs you are looking for is common size (3mm round), and color.
User avatar
By locotesmjr Tue Jul 19, 2011 7:52 pm
^^ Thanks bro!... I just found this on Ebay and I think it worth to give it a try... 10 for $1 shipping included and they are the same mA that you suggested also 7000mcd so I think it is going to be okay... like you said leds are just indicators so if they lit it is all that I'm looking for!

Thanks again for your help... so I think the only thing that I need to get cover with my customization work it is to find who can make the screen to put the lettering back on my 2K

IF someone else is interested:

http://cgi.ebay.com/10-X-3mm-White-LED- ... 002wt_1396
By JVC Tue Jul 19, 2011 7:59 pm
locotesmjr wrote:^^ Thanks bro!... I just found this on Ebay and I think it worth to give it a try... 10 for $1 shipping included and they are the same mA that you suggested also 7000mcd so I think it is going to be okay... like you said leds are just indicators so if they lit it is all that I'm looking for!

Thanks again for your help... so I think the only thing that I need to get cover with my customization work it is to find who can make the screen to put the lettering back on my 2K

IF someone else is interested:

http://cgi.ebay.com/10-X-3mm-White-LED- ... 002wt_1396

Most likely work, but you should get non-clear white LEDs, if you can find one. Frosted (fogged?) white LED (I don't know that's called) would be better choice.
User avatar
By locotesmjr Tue Jul 19, 2011 8:37 pm
JVC wrote:Actually, you can just use fine sanding paper:

http://www.instructables.com/id/how-to-defuse-an-LED/



Just a note about this, I was thinking about it and I think that could be easier to apply the sand paper to the LED cover instead the LED it self... since the LED it is round you need to work like 5 min in every LED (time suggested on your link) maybe if you apply the sand paper to the small area that receive the light from the LED could give you the same results... the idea about the sand paper is to get some rugged in the surface so light do not pass that "freely"...
I'm going to try to apply sand paper where I placed the right red arrow, so light do not pass that bright to where I placed the left arrow...


Image
User avatar
By locotesmjr Sat Jul 30, 2011 10:15 pm
JVC wrote:Oh, I didn't realize that there are LED covers, so there isn't not much need to sand LEDs.

My bad...



Yo bro, I just replaced the contact switches and the LEDs of my 2K classic, it was easier than I thought!... 11 white LEDs and 8 contact switches were replaced (I just replaced the contact switches that are the most used since the other ones are working good for me) so I spend $4.40 buying 20 contacts and $2.97 buying 30 LEDs... soldering/desoldering work was easy since I have the tools but if you are inexperienced you just need to be careful and patient... the job it is pretty straight forward...
Only need to paint my case and put the lettering back... I'm almost done!