Any news on jogwheel encoder upgrade/repair possibilities?

As title states; what's the latest info regarding the best option for either upgrading or repairing a jogwheel encoder that has begun to fail? On an MPC 1000, naturally.

I have the original pcb board, with the plastic encoder - and so from where should I buy an upgrade? Ive scanned the forum/the internet and it seems like there haven't been found a working solution?

When I asked MPCstuff about their metal encoder, and the modification they propose one should make on the pcb board, they just send me this picture:

Have any one succeded in upgrading the jogwheel encoder, and if yes, how?

Sorry for my english, im clearly not a native speaker.

Thank you!

/muntergraes

Holy sh*t. Why the hell is there so much solder being used in this picture!

richie wrote:Holy sh*t. Why the hell is there so much solder being used in this picture!

And why have there been drilled two large holes? (It seems like drilled holes to me, at least).

Just to reiterate; id greatly appreciate if someone who have suceeded in upgrading would speak out and share som knowledge.

Thanks

Hey Muntergraes,

I just completed this upgrade this morning. This response is late but I want to provide this info for anyone attempting this repair in future. -- Basically the short of it is that the older-style PCB (which uses the plastic encoder) has the traces going to different places than the new PCB (which was designed for the metal encoder). As a result, all that needs to be done to use the new style/metal encoder with the older PCB is make sure the traces go to the right places.

In the picture from MPC-Stuff, what's been done is that the traces have been cut on the circuit-board itself, the older encoder was removed (de-soldered), the new encoder was soldered in, and then jumper wires were soldered to the correct locations. (3 wires/traces in total). I opted not to cut traces at all, and just use some female jumper wires hooked straight up to the pins and then soldered to the original pads. The stabilization prongs on the sides can be soldered directly to the board, and as long as the 3 thru pins don't touch the old locations, you'll be fine.

Here's my install notes:
Supplies:
The encoder you want looks like:

While MPC-Stuff sells this encoder. 17.50$ + S/H is an insane price for the part. In reality from Mouser/Digikey this part probably cost 2-3$, however, I didn't want to have to search for the exact part, so I went with this slightly cheaper seller on eBay. It's the same part all around if I had to guess (mine said ALPS on it), but the eBay listing saved me the search time to find the correct part #. Think there's some threads on the forum with the exact part number if you want to go the super-cheap mouser/digikey route.

Also, I was equipped with some female/male jumper wires laying around (http://www.amazon.com/Jumper-Wires-Prem ... B008MRZSH8) which came in handy for the install.

Install



1. De-soldered the old encoder (3 pins + 2 prong points) (might want to google/yt de-soldering.. basically, just applied tension/pulled on encoder while applying soldering iron to points).
2. I bent the 3 pins horizontally on the metal encoder
3. Hooked the 3 pins up to the female side of my jumper wires and then cut the male sides.
4. Dropped new encoder into place and soldered up 2 stabilization prongs
5. Snaked the 3 wires through a slot that was already on the PCB
6. Soldered flat-down to the correct pins on the other side.

Notes
I was a little bit sloppy (almost accidentally scratched/cut an unrelated trace) and the stabilization prongs aren't quite consistent on my PCB, but the encoder doesn't move around, so i'm happy. Also note, my soldering isn't perfect, but it's good enough (for not being a 'professional') .

In JJOS 2XL I had to switch the wheel-type and I was on my way. The difference between the old plastic encoder and new metal encoder is night and day -- definitely worth the install. One tick is one movement and there's no longer any jumpiness, just clean and smooth scrolling.

You are a wizard milesalan, and bigup for sharing the knowledge with me and the community! Im receiving the encoder with the mail today, ill keep you updated on how it goes. Thanks again!
BTW I also ordered the thumb-jog wheel, looking forward to that added layer of tactile pleasure, if you know what i mean

I basically did same kind of repair last week as milesalan. I had it in my mind for like 6 months, but recently I got super pissed off to that broken jogwheel piece of sh--. Instead of jumper I just soldered cables to the pins and soldered the other ends where the pins should go on the PCB. Those black round things inside my Mpc are just fillers to keep the data-wheel stable.


The rotary knob is from a car cd-player's front panel. The knob was a bit longer than the old one, I had to add padding to the data-wheel and install it out side the case.




Like milesalan said, the difference is like night and day. Although the new rotary knob gives 2 ticks in OS when moving it 1 tick (meaning like when I change the pitch of a pad +1.00 from the rotary, it changes +2.00 in program), the rotary knob can be turned "half a tick", which gives me 1 tick in OS, so no problem there really.

Muntergraes wrote:When I asked MPCstuff about their metal encoder, and the modification they propose one should make on the pcb board, they just send me this picture:

Have any one succeded in upgrading the jogwheel encoder, and if yes, how?

For some time I used +/- within jjos "button feature" of other controller or PC keyboard and it worked like charm but I recently bought "metal framed" ALPS (no clicky type) with same specs as original, took it to electronic dude with a photo above - he said this wiring is unneccesary and he will "cross it" somehow...
I don't know what it looks like in the end undernieth but it works ALL GOOD with jog wheel type 2 on jjos.
Total cost - 8$

This ALPS has a little longer stick, so I have to cut it to right dimension, but at first I thought I will leave it on top of the frame... but on a second thought I will do everything to put it inside the frame, as leaving it outside is asking for damage...

Has anyone found the actual ALPS part number with the right height for this rotary encoder?

I just replaced the default jog wheel with the metal encoder. It's so much better and solid.

The part number is ALPS EC12E24204A2 - Just follow the wiring diagram listed in the posts above, no shaving down required.

Enjoy

I installed the metal encoder from MPCstuff. I chose to cut the traces with a dremel and solder the pins to the board and run jumper wires, the method supplied by MPCstuff. Posting an image of the new encoder for reference. You must bend the outer pins slightly outward to fit the holes in the board. Before you solder the pins to the board make sure you push the encoder into the board flat or it might not be straight or sit too high. Also did not need to shave the post down.

this is maybe the most concise and informative thread on this whole forum.

minus richie's wisecracks of course

thank yall

Dose anyone know how to make the Jog wheel move one step at a time without turning it physically a half step? Its kinda annoying. Thanks for this tutorial BTW! It helped a whole lot.

You need to run the Akai OS 2.13 or JJ OS to do that. Update to JJ OS and do : http://www7a.biglobe.ne.jp/~mpc1000/faq.htm

Look at the first thing at the top of the page. It'll tell you how to change your jog wheel type.

richie wrote:You need to run the Akai OS 2.13 or JJ OS to do that. Update to JJ OS and do : http://www7a.biglobe.ne.jp/~mpc1000/faq.htm

Look at the first thing at the top of the page. It'll tell you how to change your jog wheel type.

I have changed it, and I own the jjos2xl. It's not working at all on one wheel type, and skipping one step for every click on the other.

I have doubts that you bought the correct encoder. I've done this mod to both the blue and black 1000's and I have one step per click, not skipping at all.