Post your questions, opinions and reviews of the MPC1000. This forum is for discussion of the OFFICIAL Akai OS (2.1). If you wish to discuss the JJ OS, please use the dedicated JJ OS forum
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By richie Sun Jul 23, 2017 4:28 am
Yes that's the same encoders I use. Btw Tundra no offense but you did a bad job with that soldering. You put way too much solder, leaving cold solder bits. I'm guessing you aren't experienced and have a low temperature soldering iron. :/

Also, I can't account for Kerberos issue because both my MPC1000's don't do that at all.
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By Tundrah Sun Jul 23, 2017 7:30 am
richie wrote:Yes that's the same encoders I use. Btw Tundra no offense but you did a bad job with that soldering. You put way too much solder, leaving cold solder bits. I'm guessing you aren't experienced and have a low temperature soldering iron. :/

Also, I can't account for Kerberos issue because both my MPC1000's don't do that at all.

I take no offense. I'm a newb and learning. I should maybe clean up this mess and resolder it then?
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By richie Sun Jul 23, 2017 8:11 am
Yeah you should certainly clean it up. Do you have any solder flux or anything? Soldering to the pads only requires very minimal solder. If anything, the only thing that required more solder were the 2 arched standoffs (12 noon and 6pm). Basically, your goal should be for your solder work to look as close to factory as it can.

I do not know why some of you guys are doing the method where you're running jumper cables from the 3 points on the rotary encoder to the pads on the board. Those 3 points provide additional support to the 2 large arched standoffs.

When I do the upgrade, I simply cut the traces on the board and run new jumpers from the original pads to the new routing. Pretty much the same as illustrated in the picture in the beginning of the thread.
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By Tundrah Sun Jul 23, 2017 7:37 pm
richie wrote:Yeah you should certainly clean it up. Do you have any solder flux or anything? Soldering to the pads only requires very minimal solder. If anything, the only thing that required more solder were the 2 arched standoffs (12 noon and 6pm). Basically, your goal should be for your solder work to look as close to factory as it can.

I do not know why some of you guys are doing the method where you're running jumper cables from the 3 points on the rotary encoder to the pads on the board. Those 3 points provide additional support to the 2 large arched standoffs.

When I do the upgrade, I simply cut the traces on the board and run new jumpers from the original pads to the new routing. Pretty much the same as illustrated in the picture in the beginning of the thread.

I'm very thankful for your answer. Are you just using a scalpel or something? I believe it's important to not just cut the trace, but actually make it 100% certain it's no contact, or am I wrong? I find it very logical though, that the three pins provide extra support for the big wheel. Mine was scraping a bit towards the casing. Not a pleasant sound.
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By richie Mon Jul 24, 2017 12:26 am
I'm glad it sorted out. So just to confirm here, you decided to break the contacts and do it the same as the first picture?

Also, regarding breaking the contacts - I used an exacto knife to do it. I did it a lot neater than how it was illustrated in the first picture, just enough to make sure the contact was really broken. I have a multimeter to make sure my sh*t was done right as well altho it isn't really necessary.

Soldering the encoder fully to the board should have it feeling like there is no or barely any wobble to the plastic top wheel at all. I was really surprised at how solid it was in comparison to that garbage plastic one that comes stock.
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By Tundrah Mon Jul 24, 2017 8:09 am
richie wrote:I'm glad it sorted out. So just to confirm here, you decided to break the contacts and do it the same as the first picture?

Also, regarding breaking the contacts - I used an exacto knife to do it. I did it a lot neater than how it was illustrated in the first picture, just enough to make sure the contact was really broken. I have a multimeter to make sure my sh*t was done right as well altho it isn't really necessary.

Soldering the encoder fully to the board should have it feeling like there is no or barely any wobble to the plastic top wheel at all. I was really surprised at how solid it was in comparison to that garbage plastic one that comes stock.


1. Yeah, basically. Actually I kinda desoldered a bit too much with a desoldering wire, making it clench onto the wire that is integrated into the board. The good thing about this accident, is that I could remove some of it, making the seperation between the integrated "wire" and the soldering point more obvious. Then I soldered the encoder to the board, more or less like in the picture. Except I used even less solder. It was very important for me to just get the connection between the wire and the solder points, and avoid contact between points that not supposed to be in contact.

2. And yes, the jog wheel behaves ALOT better now.
By dryad-66 Sun Jun 17, 2018 12:30 pm
richie wrote:I just replaced the default jog wheel with the metal encoder. It's so much better and solid.

The part number is ALPS EC12E24204A2 - Just follow the wiring diagram listed in the posts above, no shaving down required.

Enjoy

Blimey thats 52 p in uk.Yo !!!!

http://uk.farnell.com/alps/ec12e24204a2 ... JPSvD_BwE#