MPC 60II Voltage Switch Help.

SimonInAustralia wrote:You just need fuses that match the amperage ratings and that have an equal or higher voltage rating, as listing in the service manual for the US model, that are normal/fast blow type, and that are the same fuse size.

What you had in there already probably would have worked, as they are in there with the US transformer already, and would most likely have been used with them previously. Having a lower amp rating is just going to mean the fuses might blow sooner, at lower current flow through them, it is not going to damage the MPC at all, if they do blow, you just need to replace them with the correctly rated fuses.

I went to Radioshack a minute ago and am about to install them. I figured that out about the voltage and amps after doing some reading.

I'll post a pic if it turns on.

IT LIVESSSSSSS!!!!





Only cons I've noticed thus far are that the volume pot crackles when turned and it is especially bad through the headphone out.

The fader needs to be greased up BADLY.

The other thing is that I'm gonna need to put some cork under the pads. There is definitely space between the pad and the sensor.

This thing definitely lives up to it's reputation. Kicks sound so bumpy coming out of it. I feel like the first loop I've made opened my eyes to the reasons for it's praise.

godxbOmb wrote:Only cons I've noticed thus far are that the volume pot crackles when turned and it is especially bad through the headphone out.

The fader needs to be greased up BADLY.

The other thing is that I'm gonna need to put some cork under the pads. There is definitely space between the pad and the sensor.

This thing definitely lives up to it's reputation. Kicks sound so bumpy coming out of it. I feel like the first loop I've made opened my eyes to the reasons for it's praise.

You need some Deoxit to clean the volume pot and fader. Use it sparingly. Radio Shack may still sell this. Haven't been to Ratshack in a while. There is also a Fader Lube product that you can use on the fader which will reduce the friction.

I've never been a fan of the cork, even though some swear by it. If there is a large gap between your pads and the sensors it may just need an adjustment. There is a little tab on the pads that sometimes is not seated properly.

not a huge fan of cork either on my mpc you can definitely feel the space between the pad and sensor but the pads work just great

about the volume pot crackle that usually goes away just by turning it left and right for a while after you turn it on, it should go, if not should be an easy fix anyway.

soundtech wrote:about the volume pot crackle that usually goes away just by turning it left and right for a while after you turn it on, it should go, if not should be an easy fix anyway.

Yeah it seems to have cleared itself up already. The data wheel seems to act up in certain menus where it will scroll characters in the opposite direction from where it should. Then sometimes it will skip around randomly Maybe the cable is connected wrong.

it may just need an adjustment.

If that little nipple is already pushed in, I will stick electrical tape under the pads and see if that fixes it.

All in all it's was still a great deal I think. I need to buy some orange oil cleaner to get the gunk off the outside. It's time to shine this baby up

When using Deoxit does one simply coat the component from the outside? Say for instance I want to treat an output jack; would I spray it inside the jack or where it connects to the circuit board?

You spray it inside the component, sparingly.

It is designed to remove the oxidisation, in the case of a jack, for example, from where the metal surface of the plug touches the metal surface of the jack internal contacts.

godxbOmb wrote:The data wheel seems to act up in certain menus where it will scroll characters in the opposite direction from where it should. Then sometimes it will skip around randomly Maybe the cable is connected wrong.

I had the same issue with a data wheel on an MPC3000. Fixed it by spaying alcohol inside it and spinning it around a number of times to clean it. Then squirted a bit of switch cleaner/lubrication into it. Fixed it straight away.

jimmie wrote:

godxbOmb wrote:The data wheel seems to act up in certain menus where it will scroll characters in the opposite direction from where it should. Then sometimes it will skip around randomly Maybe the cable is connected wrong.

I had the same issue with a data wheel on an MPC3000. Fixed it by spaying alcohol inside it and spinning it around a number of times to clean it. Then squirted a bit of switch cleaner/lubrication into it. Fixed it straight away.

I'll spray it with deoxit and see how it fares after. Not a big deal because I can still use the -/+ buttons.

She's clean as a whistle now. I installed some new 2000xl pads and a backlight. I also sprayed deoxit on all the contacts and pots. Last thing I need to do is either grease the fader or replace it entirely.

I used Servisol Super 10.
Can't get deOxit over here but Servisol is everywhere.

I've read that Servisol Super 10 can attack plastic so do your homework on whichever conductivity cleaning lubricant you use and mebee keep it away from plastic as a precaution.
Doesn't say so on the can though... just read in forums.

Also, I'd avoid using anything like this for most pots and faders if you can because it removes the lovely thick, smooth, greased buttery feel and leaves you with a faster action but not the original gloopy-resistant feel.

Fine for spinny data entry encoders, switches and jack contacts though

godxbOmb wrote:She's clean as a whistle now. I installed some new 2000xl pads and a backlight. I also sprayed deoxit on all the contacts and pots. Last thing I need to do is either grease the fader or replace it entirely.

So is your encoder now working?

jimmie wrote:

godxbOmb wrote:She's clean as a whistle now. I installed some new 2000xl pads and a backlight. I also sprayed deoxit on all the contacts and pots. Last thing I need to do is either grease the fader or replace it entirely.

So is your encoder now working?

I works better. Sometimes it still will tick backward instead of forward at random. I can live with it. Somehow the 2000XL pads improved the playing action on the sensors. I tried to install tape and cork squares on two separate occasions and neither solution worked out. I'm happy with how it plays now really Once I sit down and start jamming with it I don't want to get up.

On a side note Jimmie... I just received 4x MOS SID 8580R5 and one 6581 R4 in the mail.