MPC 60 DOES NOT POWER UP

Hello,
That's what happened...
i found my mpc60 turned off but half an hour before I was playing and everything was good.
I tried to switch off and power up but the only thing I see on the screen are horizontal lines, no other light, no floppy light, no nothing. now if I try to power up also lines and shadows on the screen are disappeared.

WHat Can I Do? Please Help me... Any suggestions very appreciated.

Unplug it from the power, open it up, check that none of the four fuses in the power supply section have blown, replace any that have.

First of all, I want to thank you SimonInAustralia for the answer.

I open it and I see the three fuses up and the other down in the power supply zone.. they don't seem to be black like if the have blown.

How can I check them? in the case some have blown is it easy to find new ones that fit and replace?

dj vinch wrote:How can I check them?

If the glass is clear enough to see if the wire inside is gone, or with a multimeter/continuity tester.

There are different values, so make sure the correct values go in each fuse position.

The fuse values depend upon which region the MPC was manufactured for, there is a region code on the rear panel of the MPC.

Again, make sure it is unplugged when you touch the power supply area, these fuses carry mains AC voltage, it can kill you.

Have a look at the fuse values stamped/engraved in the metal ends/caps of the fuse, and maybe write down the value of each fuse and it's fuse position, as you take them out.

The fuse values for each region, listed for the MPC60, ASQ10, and MPC60II, are as follows, from the service manuals, use the correct fuse values depending on your exact region code and MPC model...

Fuse values from page 9 of MPC60 Schematic Diagrams and PC Boards manual, on the MPC60 Connection Diagram.

The letter code(s) (J / A,C / E,V,B,S), which indicate the primary destination(s) of the MPC60, can be found next to the "MODEL NUMBER MPC60" label on the rear panel.

J (Japan)
F1 1.6A 250V
F2 3.15A 250V
F3 800mA 250V
F4 800mA 250V

A,C (USA/Canada)
F1 1.25A 125V
F2 3.15A 125V
F3 1A 125V
F4 1A 125V

E,V,B,S (Europe-except UK/W.Germany only/UK/Australia)
F1 T500mA 250V
F2 T2.5A 250V
F3 T500mA 250V
F4 T500mA 250V
* T=Time-Delay (slow blow)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Fuse values from page 11 of ASQ10 Schematic Diagrams and PC Boards manual, on the ASQ10 Connection Diagram.

The letter code(s) (J / A,C / E,V,B,S), which indicate the primary destination(s) of the ASQ10, can be found next to the "MODEL NUMBER ASQ10" label on the rear panel.

J (Japan)
F1 1A 250V
F2 2.5A 250V
F3 315mA 250V
F4 315mA 250V

A,C (USA/Canada)
F1 1A 125V
F2 2.5A 125V
F3 315mA 125V
F4 315mA 125V

E,V,B,S (Europe-except UK/W.Germany only/UK/Australia)
F1 T800mA 250V
F2 T2A 250V
F3 T160mA 250V
F4 T160mA 250V
* T=Time-Delay (slow blow)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Fuse values from page 4 of MPC60II Schematic Diagrams and PC Boards manual, on the MPC60II Connection Diagram.

The letter code(s) (J / A,C / E,V,B,S), which indicate the primary destination(s) of the MPC60II, can be found on a stick on label above the AC power inlet on the rear panel.

J (Japan)
F1 1.6A 250V
F2 3.15A 250V
F3 800mA 250V
F4 800mA 250V

A,C (USA/Canada)
F1 1.6A 125V
F2 3.15A 125V
F3 1A 125V
F4 1A 125V

E,V,B,S (Europe-except UK/Germany/UK/Australia)
F1 T630mA 250V
F2 T2.5A 250V
F3 T500mA 250V
F4 T500mA 250V
* T=Time-Delay (slow blow)

thanks for your preciois advices, I'll take care of everything...
If it wasn't for the fourth placed in a pretty difficult position I would have tried myself...
Since it seems to be a simple job for a technician I'll call some local generic audio repair shop.
Hope it's as simple as write it..

You can do it yourself, you already have the MPC open, you just have to use a screwdriver, or something, to lever the fuses out of the fuse holder clips, buy the correct replacements from an electronic parts supplier, based on the MPC model and region code in the list of fuse values above, and push the replacements back into the fuse holder clips.

If you do take it to a tech, it would help to print out the list of fuse values and take them in, and would save time/$ if you took it in already open, so all they have to do is lift the front panel and swap out the fuses.

THanks a lot Mr. SimonInAustralia you couldn't be more clear and persuasive.
I'm writing back as soon as I do what I have to do.
Bless

Hello,
I found the correct fuse I put the fuses in the holder clips, but one side of one fuse older clip has broken.

http://s13.postimg.org/ioe0sews7/image.jpg

I think it's better wait before turn the power on. I feel like a need an advice before try if mpc turns on.

The fuse seems to be still in the holder clip...

dj vinch wrote:Hello,
I found the correct fuse I put the fuses in the holder clips, but one side of one fuse older clip has broken.

http://s13.postimg.org/ioe0sews7/image.jpg

I think it's better wait before turn the power on. I feel like a need an advice before try if mpc turns on.

If fuse holder was broken or damaged before you changed the fuse this may have been causing your power issues. These clips connect the fuse into the power circuit.

You'll need to replace the fuseholder. Replacement fuse holders are relatively cheap. If you are not able to solder you will have to find someone to install it for you.

Fuseholder clip side broke after I replaced fuse. One fuse was blown since the wire was cut.

Anyway I tried to power up but on the screen I see the same thing when it broke something like shadows and horizontal lines. Then... Nothing...

Then I tried changing two of the four fuse another time and I found one blown, I turn power on and on the screen same thing as above...



So you think if the holderclip is missing of a little side, shown in pic above, it can't work in no way, right?

Tomorrow I'll try a tech... Remebering last times I brought things to repair I feel like I need to be lucky.

Take it to a tech, the broken fuse holder needs to be replaced, which needs desoldering/soldering skills, along with a suitable replacement part being sourced.

Thanks a lot for yor support.

In the case fuseholder replacement aren't available, could it be right soldering the missing piece back in its place?

It really depends on how/where the fuse holder is broken.

I would guess that it needs to be replaced altogether, not very likely that is has become loose and can be simply resoldered back into place, more likely that it has broken.