The place to share knowledge about upgrades, mods, customisations and all other cool DIY projects for MPCs and other music equipment.
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By Star One Fri Oct 31, 2014 2:01 am
I had not seen this anywhere online so figured I would try it myself and it worked, so I'm posting here.

So for those who want their 2500 to look a bit more of the classic Akai MPC's, there was the skin offered by MPC-STUFF, and a couple other sites had them also.

I went with the one from MPC-STUFF. But it just still wasnt looking enough like a 2500. When I was looking at the custom MPC thread, and seen someone had done a custom (fully painted, not skinned) 2500 it had the buttons, everything matching.

That being what I wanted, I wondered if any of the buttons from the 2000XL were interchangeable with the 2500.

Well I found out the key pad buttons are, being that all the other buttons look the same already (except Window) of course which I will get into shortly.

So for me a while back I had replaced my 2KXL buttons with the black ones from MPC-STUFF and kept my old ones in a bag. So today I took off the top case, removed the PCB with the number pad buttons, popped them out, popped the blue keys in, and it worked out great. Nice look too.

By the photos for anyone not firmillar with changing keys, you can see the process is incredibly easy.

Remove the shell, unhook the ribbon cable at the bottom by pulling the two black edges forward (ribbon slides right out with ease), and all the molexs


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Remove all the screws holding the PCB down, and lift it off the board. From the bottom side you can push the plastic bottom bits toward each other and they pop right out.

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Then from top side, pop the new ones back in

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And bosh

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Really helps the overall look.

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I'm still getting around to doing the window key, which requires shortening the length of the arms that hold the button part out, and flipping it around. I'll post that a bit later.
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By Star One Fri Oct 31, 2014 7:24 am
Lampdog wrote:2500xl


:nod: Thats what I was saying a while back

I forgot to mention the large XL buttons, and small buttons (F) are also interchangeable. Mine were yellowed so I didnt bother.

MPC-Stuff now has the small buttons and medium buttons listed im the 2500 section. White and off-white but for the 2500XL gotta be the off-white. 3 dollars a peice, in total equals out roughly to the black button set.

Got the XL rec gain and vol knobs on there now. The gray knobs with colored tops I think is more pleasing then white. I think they sell these also, I will have to check.
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By Lampdog Fri Oct 31, 2014 1:46 pm
I've gotten a few knobs and stuff from Mike. It's always exactly what I want.
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By Star One Fri Oct 31, 2014 6:31 pm
Nope, the buttons are held in by little plastic hooks. Just pinch them toward each other from the under side and they pop up and out. With your plasti-dip solution for the jog wheel, would save you from buying one for the 5000, and work great with the blue buttons and skin.

MPC-Tutor wrote:Very nice looking 2500 there :nod:


Thank you! It's going to be much nicer tomorrow once the new jog wheel and off-white buttons/gray knobs come in.

Here's with a pair of old XL knobs to further it a bit.


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By Star One Sat Nov 01, 2014 7:12 pm
Got the White LCD in today. Second step.

You can see it compared to the green one, looks just like the 2000XL when turned off


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PERFECT!
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My third step was the window key. I had to have an orange window key. So I took some old buttons and trashed them.

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Then started assembling it.

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Then installed

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If you think it was a terrible button build, then this should change your mind.

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Even lights up

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And there we are with the Classic Skin, 2000XL number buttons, 2000XL Rec/Vol Knobs, orange Window key from the 2000XL, black Jog Wheel from the 5000, and white LCD.

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And an added optional bonus. Screen lines if you really want to feel the pain of nostalgia, adjust the contrast right and you'll have this

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Everything here can be purchased from MPC-STUFF except the blue buttons and orange window key. You might search earlier models to see if any purple or blue buttons pop up, but right now you will have to make the window key yourself, and it's very easy. Just clip the button off it's holding, cut the top off a clear button, make sure to shave it down completely flat with a razor blade, glue the orange on top of it, and bosh.

What you will notice about the window key, you might be wondering WHY did I do something so stupid like cut the arms off. Was not me. Previous owner I found out had attempted to super glue a bunch of broken buttons, prolly from watching Youtube videos and thinking you have to slam the shit out of your buttons to really look cool making beats. So I used a broken key, as this was just a test run to see if it would work.

So buying a new key, just snipping the top off, remove the old orange top and put it back on. It clicks fine, just looks a bit uncentered for my taste. Had to make note of that real quick.
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By kneebone77 Sun Nov 02, 2014 6:10 am
StarOne wrote:ImageImage



Wow Breh, Just Wow...
Great eye for detail.
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By Star One Sun Nov 02, 2014 6:46 pm
313 studio tricks wrote:does that overlay say mpc-stuff on it?


Nope. Comes with 2 MPC-STUFF stickers, and 2 12" Skins stickers. I didn't use them tho. But no branding outside of Akai.

Just says MPC2500 in the 2000XL style font, in the usual place.
By mcroepster Sun Nov 02, 2014 7:05 pm
Dope, nice looking mpc.!

peace :smoker:
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By Star One Thu Nov 13, 2014 1:18 am
I've had quite a few PM's asking if I soldiered the ground wires back onto the new screen or not.

I did yes.

As for will it be fine without, I can only tell from the MPC-STUFF video I was linked to, that it does work without them, and can be seen in the video that it works fine.

Removal is easy, even if your first soldiering job, it's not a bad start. Plenty of room for error, so chances of screwing up is low.

On the original screen, just take soldiering wick, lay it flat across the top of the ground wires. Press your fully heated iron onto the wick gently. Slowly the soldier will soak up and the wire will begin to wiggle loose.

It can take a while depending on your irons heat, as this is really stiff soldier on there. Pretty high melting point.

Then on the new screen, just melt some soldier to the brass feet on the board, next to the clamps that stick up. Lay the ground wire flat across it (and along the clamp, on top of the brass) and touch your iron to it, and it will melt right into both.