The place to share knowledge about upgrades, mods, customisations and all other cool DIY projects for MPCs and other music equipment.
By LZ Roberts Tue Feb 15, 2011 10:46 am
TACT SWITCHES AGAIN!!!!!!


I'm just writing to thank all the forum who've posted about the tact switch problem, as I've just replaced dozens of mine.
My MPC 2500 was having problems pretty much from the start with intermittently working buttons, I sort of put up with it knowing that if I pressed this or that button in a certain way then it would work.

Anyway, after my very essential Mode button totally went, I dug in with my soldering iron & seeing that that went well I got about 50 excellent switches for the same price you can get 1 for from one certain MPC parts supplier.

My 2500 feels silky smooth now, this is how them there Numark/AkaiPro should have made them from the start. Using the old switches felt like programming at the end of a big stick by comparison. I've left in a few of the old switches that were working 100% fine & you can still sense the difference.

May I definitely recommend ALPS-SKHHAKA010 as replacement.

I got mine from Farnell, the min order was £20, all the switches were about £8 so I bumped up the order by getting loads of patch cable, which is always useful.

http://uk.farnell.com/alps/skhhaka010/s ... t=165-6423

The problem I was having was finding an elegant way of removing the old switches. I tried to get as much solder off with a solder pump, but still had to wedge in a jewellers screwdriver beneath the switches to prize them out while heating from the other side. I'm sure a better suggestion would be appreciated by future tact switch sufferers.

Also, I was finding that there were loose microscopic bits of solder left on the board after I repaired the switch. I think the CPU board is underneath this board, if these bits fell into that then the whole MPC could stop working, so I used a toothbrush to clean off the repaired board's solder debris.

I'm thinking of posting the old switches back to Akai Pro & demanding that whoever was responsible be humiliated infront of the whole MPC production team in a very Japanese stylee for insulting the MPC spirit of Roger Linn. Does anyone know where they live?

Cheers.

Re: I found the compatible tact switch to replace the MPC's red
JVC wrote:I think this switch is not hard to find if you know where to look, but I accidentally found this tactile switch:

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-st ... UNT/1.html

This tact switch is good for replacing MPC-1000, MPC-2000, and other MPC's red, large tact switches that are used for play, record botton, etc. I know you might notice that the shape is a bit different than the red switches on MPC, but this is compatible. This is nice, Omron brand, 12x12mm flat type switch (the part number is B3W-4000).


---------------------------------

READ FURTHER ON TOO
Some later posts have additional information and also there is reference to DeoxIt contact spray which may be, for some problems, a good alternative to the soldering option. See how it all pans out.
Last edited by LZ Roberts on Mon May 21, 2012 9:32 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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By Coz Wed Feb 16, 2011 2:08 am
LZ Roberts wrote:May I definitely recommend ALPS-SKHHAKA010 as replacement.

I got mine from Farnell, the min order was £20, all the switches were about £8 so I bumped up the order by getting loads of patch cable, which is always useful.

http://uk.farnell.com/alps/skhhaka010/s ... t=165-6423



Cheers for the info mate.

Sounds like these switches are much higher quality which is nice to know. 8)
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By elevated Wed Feb 16, 2011 4:48 am
LZ Roberts wrote:The problem I was having was finding an elegant way of removing the old switches. I tried to get as much solder off with a solder pump, but still had to wedge in a jewellers screwdriver beneath the switches to prize them out while heating from the other side. I'm sure a better suggestion would be appreciated by future tact switch sufferers.


I use a product which absorbs the solder,, forgot what it's called. It's like a spool of special metallic coil to absorb solder. Pretty cool shiit, it does the trick. U can get it at Radioshack in the US
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By mp3 Thu Feb 17, 2011 2:39 pm
elevated wrote:
LZ Roberts wrote:The problem I was having was finding an elegant way of removing the old switches. I tried to get as much solder off with a solder pump, but still had to wedge in a jewellers screwdriver beneath the switches to prize them out while heating from the other side. I'm sure a better suggestion would be appreciated by future tact switch sufferers.


I use a product which absorbs the solder,, forgot what it's called. It's like a spool of special metallic coil to absorb solder. Pretty cool shiit, it does the trick. U can get it at Radioshack in the US


its called desoldering braid.
By Tee Thu Feb 17, 2011 10:46 pm
Thanks for the very useful information here, I'm sure gonna replace some faulty buttons myself!

Does anybody know where to find some replacement rotary-encoders??? (besides vst service or mpcstuff)
If anyone knows - PLEASE post the manufacturer part number, just like LZ Roberts did in his post.
My gain-rotary is in bad shape and it's really putting me off at times...

Thanks!
By MPCHunter Fri Feb 18, 2011 3:25 pm
LZ Roberts wrote: I'm sure a better suggestion would be appreciated by future tact switch sufferers.


There is not enough flux in the old solder for it to flow well to be removed. The easiest remedy is to add a little bit of new solder to the part you want to take off. Once the solder is reflowed use your pump or braid to remove the solder.
By LZ Roberts Sat Feb 19, 2011 9:38 pm
Just been looking at some other forum users problems with tact switches & think it may be worth a mention some of the additional problems here, just in case.

I saw 3lusive's photo & realised it may be a good idea to say that some higher wattage soldering irons could wreck your board. I know this from experience with other soldering jobs too. The cheaper, easy to get soldering irons are generally meant for electrical & car electrics, not for PCBs. They get too hot & then start lifting the tracks. I used a 17w Antex iron meant for electronics, they come with a less clumsy soldering bit too. Discovered that the wattage ratings seem quite different in the US probably because the main voltages are different, 110V instead of 240V
I think 3lusive got the surface mount tacts from Radio Shack which also made life a bit difficult. We used to have Radio Shacks in the UK - They were called Tandy and they were fairly useless and quite expensive - we don't seem to have them now.


Image



Also don't apply the heat too long, count to about 3 or 4 and thats about as long as the heat should be applied. If you get to about 6 or 7 then you could end up running the risk of damage. It is better to stop & let it cool a bit before having another go. Put some solder on the tip & then try to desolder, it sounds counter intuitive to add more solder, but this will help melt the solder on the board.

RE : CONNECTORS

Also, on the 2500, the flat flexible cable at the bottom is removed by pulling back the tabs at the left & righthand side of the connector, the connector looks like one bit of plastic but the tabs move back & release the cable.

People have been having problems with the other cable connectors too. I've found that wedging in a flat jewellers screwdriver between the socket & plug and turning it prizes them apart gently.
Last edited by LZ Roberts on Wed Aug 03, 2011 8:11 am, edited 2 times in total.
By LZ Roberts Sun Feb 20, 2011 9:22 am
I was just thinking about poor 3lusive if he comes across the picture of his board here.

Just to let him know not to be downhearted. I've had my own share of boards like this too (All down to using a cheaper, hotter soldering iron that I used to use). And that it is still fixable.

First you need Tact switches that go through the board. Try to get as much of the old solder off as you can from the points. If a trace/track has gone then you can't really do much about that but you can solder on some hook up wire to the next point along the board and to the tact switch leg.

If you look at the top left of the switch terminal on the board it traces back to the bottom right of the neighbouring one, the top right traces to the one beneath etc. You can hook up between points like this.

If there is no point to hook up to then you may be able to bare a bit of the trace with a scalpel very carefully, apply a bit of solder there (its called tinning) and then hook your wire there. You've also got to 'tin' the ends of your wires first before trying to solder them on. If you are going to bare a trace then don't do it right near the lifted end as this will only keep it lifting along the track.

The Tact may also need to be held in from the other-side too by a bit of glue (or they may be large enough for a bit of double sided tape) .

Good luck to 3lusive and anyone else who may have this problem. Hopefully you've got a friend with shaolin soldering skills who will help you out.
Last edited by LZ Roberts on Mon Mar 07, 2011 6:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
By dtaa pla muk Mon Feb 21, 2011 8:12 pm
yall know you can clone buttons, right?
ie strip an ethernet cable, run 2 wires from the legs/solder points of a tact switch to the legs/solder points of a whole different tact switch and have 2 of the same button?

this is how i have a left and right MODE button for easy track changes on jjos.

mod your mpc. it's easy.
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By emceewhiterabbit Sun Feb 27, 2011 1:45 am
i'm not confident enough to do all this shit. any of you lot live in the UK fancy doing it for me??! travel and lunch paid for, of course :D
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By elevated Sun Mar 06, 2011 3:43 am
Nym wrote:yall know you can clone buttons, right?
ie strip an ethernet cable, run 2 wires from the legs/solder points of a tact switch to the legs/solder points of a whole different tact switch and have 2 of the same button?

this is how i have a left and right MODE button for easy track changes on jjos.

mod your mpc. it's easy.


You're crazy my dude,,, I could use some pics of your joint with the dual mode buttons
By LZ Roberts Sun Mar 06, 2011 9:32 am
emceewhiterabbit wrote:i'm not confident enough to do all this ****. any of you lot live in the UK fancy doing it for me??! travel and lunch paid for, of course :D


It may be that you need to put your location in your post - others may think that you live in some god-forsaken place like Middlesbrough when you are actually just 'round the corner from another forum member.
Their was one post where someone was chuffed to bits that he'd replaced all his tacts very successfully and was offering a freelance service to others. I've been trying to find it to pass it on but haven't had any luck yet.

Come across some info that may be helpful if you do end up giving it a go though.

Removing a 2500 casing: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhYqySGH-7k

Some big photo's of a tact replacement job:-
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=109133&hilit=tact+switch - though not sure about the reeming out the hole idea of his.

This is a video of someone replacing the switches on a 3000 - not watched it yet as I've only got an internet dongle - hopefully it'll be educational rather than frightening:-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6XbdAAQj1s
Just watched it. The desoldering iron is quite neat, a bit decadent for the rest of us though, a desolder pump will do. But would have liked to see how he removed the switches.

Some soldering pages:-
http://dragon.herts.ac.uk/~eleqdml/teac ... soldering/
http://www.epemag.wimborne.co.uk/desolderpix.htm
http://www.soundonsound.com/sos/sep02/a ... on0902.asp

It is the desoldering part thats the hard bit I think & if you get the tact out, then popping a new one in and soldering it up isn't so daunting. Seeing the previous post with the burnt tracks is a bit scary, its like being shown a car accident before you start a driving lesson. But that was down to using a over-powered soldering iron and trying to force in the wrong tact switches.

When I first gave mine a go I chose a switch that I wouldn't miss. (the +/- or the Input Thru). So if it didn't go so well then I could back away. It was just the thing of trying to edge the switch out by applying heat to one leg and lifting it slightly, then going to the next one and doing the same. I had to go round a few times to get the thing out. But I was being careful as I was going to re-use the switch for a completely ****ed Mode switch.
Soldering it back in once you've got the replacement switch popped in the holes is an easy 6 seconds. I've not tried the desoldering braid stuff yet, that seems quite effective and will have to give that a go.

The idea of practicing on an old circuit board is a good one. Just pick one out of a smashed TV, or whatever, from a skip/dump. Then you'll get to see what the soldering lark is all about.

If anyone else has seen some good soldering tutorial sites or relevant threads then stick them onto this thread. Then it'll end up being a pretty comprehensive instruction manual.

good luck emceewhiterabbit
Last edited by LZ Roberts on Thu Jul 28, 2011 7:28 am, edited 2 times in total.
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By emceewhiterabbit Sun Mar 06, 2011 8:11 pm
LZ Roberts wrote:good luck emceewhiterabbit


many thanks, amigo you've been a great help to me and our MPC comrades

:)

ps. i'll change my location to something more specific ;)