Killed your MPC doing 8-Out install? How to fix!

Star One wrote:A lot of repair services from what I read, were ripping a lot of people off..


Symptoms: No sound output, maxed out input when sampling is pressed, pad sensors dead.


You'll read "I've hooked up everything correctly, turned the 2000xl on, smoke came out"


Cause: 34-Pin cable was plugged in backwards.


From posts I've read it's said 'motherboard problems' and the pad sensors get fried.


None of this is true.


Other posts mention it was a resistor and a pad sensor blown. Also not true (resistor is correct!). The pad sensors are FINE.


It's a single resistor that fixes all these problems.


There is a lot of bad information from searching here, giving all kinds of different values. Some say 22 or 23ohm, another says 460ohm, another one says 44.1... Then there are different people saying different color bands. These are all incorrect.


The sensor correct color bands is "YELLOW - PURPLE - GOLD - GOLD" which is:

4.7 Ohm Resistors - 1/4 Watt - 5%

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DXOAZO6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


(Big up Lampdog for the photo)

Labeled R1 next to the connector for the 8-Out expansion plug.

This is essentially what it takes to fix all the problems.

Cooked


Cut it out


Not so easy trying to guess what colors the bands used to be


New resistors will be a lot smaller, but they are the correct value



Up close to show the correct bands



Solder that guy down


And now your pads will work fine, your output will be back, your inputs will function normally. And you didn't spend 200-400 to do it!

If you don't think your comfortable doing this, send it to someone you trust, throw em a few quid, and have them solder it in for you.

Takes just a few minutes to do.

So now your safe to give it a shot again, and make sure your ribbon cable is facing in the right direction.

I can post a guide on how to mod a 40-Pin IDE male to female extention into a 34-Pin if anyone wants. Or any other questions, and especially results.

*Pilchard* wrote:Yes you can solder it in without taking out the board but it's easy to remove and will make a neater job if you do. Just cutting off the resistor and soldering onto the "stumps" looks a little like a botched job but if you can live with it (how many people are ever going to see it??) then as long as it works go ahead.

richie wrote:It's so easy to remove the board.

It's just sloppy and unprofessional to cut and not remove the legs. You can get a solder sucker or braid to remove the solder and remove the resistor clean.

vout wrote:This is a great thread, very informative. But there is a small error - Resistor R1 is a 1W resistor, not 1/4W. If you fit a 1/4W resistor here it is likely to overheat leading to early failure.

vout wrote:Colour coding does not indicate wattage rating, only resistance value and tolerance. The size of the original resistor is a better guide to the power rating, also the fact that it is mounted away from the board to aid cooling - this is usually only done for 'high-power' resistors, usually 1W and up.

I checked the schematics and it clearly shows this is a 1W resistor. It appears to be a current limiting resistor for the -12v supply in that part of the circuit, so it's current rating is important.

Star One wrote:

vout wrote:This is a great thread, very informative. But there is a small error - Resistor R1 is a 1W resistor, not 1/4W. If you fit a 1/4W resistor here it is likely to overheat leading to early failure.

Big up for pointing this out.

Updating now.

Then attempt to restore all the recently lost images

vout wrote:Colour coding does not indicate wattage rating, only resistance value and tolerance. The size of the original resistor is a better guide to the power rating, also the fact that it is mounted away from the board to aid cooling - this is usually only done for 'high-power' resistors, usually 1W and up.

I checked the schematics and it clearly shows this is a 1W resistor. It appears to be a current limiting resistor for the -12v supply in that part of the circuit, so it's current rating is important.

One quick thing, about the current rating being important. The current rating is correct. Power rating was not.




EDIT: Lampdog, can you change 1/4 WATT to 1 WATT and remove the Amazon link? ^_^ Thanks love