Technical questions for the MPC2000xl and the MPC2000
User avatar
By Star One Thu Apr 02, 2015 4:33 pm
A lot of repair services from what I read, were ripping a lot of people off..


Symptoms: No sound output, maxed out input when sampling is pressed, pad sensors dead.


You'll read "I've hooked up everything correctly, turned the 2000xl on, smoke came out"


Cause: 34-Pin cable was plugged in backwards.


From posts I've read it's said 'motherboard problems' and the pad sensors get fried.


None of this is true.


Other posts mention it was a resistor and a pad sensor blown. Also not true (resistor is correct!). The pad sensors are FINE.


It's a single resistor that fixes all these problems.


There is a lot of bad information from searching here, giving all kinds of different values. Some say 22 or 23ohm, another says 460ohm, another one says 44.1... Then there are different people saying different color bands. These are all incorrect.


The sensor correct color bands is "YELLOW - PURPLE - GOLD - GOLD" which is:

4.7 Ohm Resistors - 1 Watt - 5%

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(Big up Lampdog for the photo)

Labeled R1 next to the connector for the 8-Out expansion plug.

This is essentially what it takes to fix all the problems.

Cooked
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Cut it out
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Not so easy trying to guess what colors the bands used to be
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New resistors will be a lot smaller, but they are the correct value

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Up close to show the correct bands
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Solder that guy down
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And now your pads will work fine, your output will be back, your inputs will function normally. :nod: And you didn't spend 200-400 to do it!

If you don't think your comfortable doing this, send it to someone you trust, throw em a few quid, and have them solder it in for you.

Takes just a few minutes to do.

So now your safe to give it a shot again, and make sure your ribbon cable is facing in the right direction.

I can post a guide on how to mod a 40-Pin IDE male to female extention into a 34-Pin if anyone wants. Or any other questions, and especially results.
User avatar
By Star One Thu Apr 02, 2015 5:12 pm
If you want to know how to do this!


jibber wrote:I didn't realize this thread had so many good install pics already... i got hold of an S3000XL with the IB208P board and also the EB16. I wanted to do a DIY instruction and took quite a few pics... so i'll post them here anyway. Enjoy! :mrgreen:

Place your 2000XL on something soft, a pillow works great. Remove the following screws...
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Remove these two screws on both sides of your S3000XL...
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One more on the backside...
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Once you remove the cover of the S3000XL, remove the following screws (note that i marked the wrong screw in the picture, the one marked in the middle of the pic should be one screw to the left which is holding the support plate, not the one holding the PCB board):
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The cable used in the S3000XL that connects the IB208P is too short for the 2000XL, if you have a CF card reader in your MPC and still have the old floppy cable you can use that one (already installed in this picture, the cable i'm holding is the original one from the S3000XL...
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Remove the following screws...
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The EB16 board removed from the S3000XL, remove the little support bracket and keep the screw (you can use it to secure the board in the 2000XL)...
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There's another PCB board (L/R record input board) screwed to the support plate of the IB208P, i found it easier to remove it from the support plate, rather than removing the cables connected to it. If you cut the support plate carefully, you can put it back in place later with the part you cut away...
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Remove the IB208P board from the support plate by removing the following screws...
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Use a metal saw to cut the support plate into two parts, like shown here... be careful not to cut away the hole marked in the picture, as you'll need it to secure the plate to the case of the 2000XL...
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I don't know about other people, but in my case i also had to modify the following part... use a metal file to grind down the marked metal piece like shown in the picture, otherwise a screw inside the MPC case will stand in its way...
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On your 2000XL, you can remove the following screws and take out the cover plate for the 8 outs... keep the plate and screws to put it into the S3000XL...
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put into the S3000XL...
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Here's the EB16 in the 2000XL, connect it and secure it with the screw from the little support bracket you removed earlier...
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Now comes the only tricky part of this mod... attaching the new floppy cable to the IB208P board. With this you should be very careful in order not to break anything.
Use a very small flat screwdriver and position it like shown in this picture... gently pry open the plastic cover holding the cable in place by pulling the screwdriver to the "inside direction" of each side (sorry for the bad english)...
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You don't need much force, just pull upwards on the plastic clip while pushing the clip to the outside with the screwdriver. Once it un-clips, it'll look like this... (repeat on the other side)...
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Once the plastic cover of the cable is removed, it'll look like this... it's a good idea to indicate the side with the red cable (pin one) on the connector before removing the cable (so you know which way around to put in the new cable later)...
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In order to put in the floppy cable from the 2000XL, you have to remove the black clip that connect the cable to the motherboard of the 2000XL. I show it on another cable in this picture (the one that was originally in the S3000XL), but the principle is exactly the same with the one in the 2000XL. Gently remove the plastic cover by prying open the clips like this...
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Here's the cable being removed from the old connector... in my case the gap of the pins that pierce through the cable was not the same as on the connector of the IB208P board, so cut away the old holes of the cable...
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And this is the tricky part... putting the new cable in place on the IB208P without breaking something. It requires quite some force to pierce the pins through the cable, at the same time you have to make sure to line it up exactly right, and not to break or bend any of the pins or break the cable. I used a small key and screwdriver to push the cable in place (take your time, be careful)...
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Once you managed to connect the cable to the board, screw it back to the support plate and then into the MPC by using the following screws and connecting the floppy cable to the bus shown in the picture...
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If everything worked, you'll be able to access the individual outs and effects page in your 2000XL...
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Peace!




I'll post another method for turning a 40-Pin IDE male to female extension cable into a 34-Pin shortly
User avatar
By Star One Thu Apr 02, 2015 6:47 pm
I installed the 8-Outs from a S3000XL cable backwords. When I turned the MPC on it was really laggy and I smelled something like burnt skin


Thats when I went to load up some sounds, and the pads didn't work. So I remembered tons of threads saying "Installed 8-Outs, MPC smoking!?!?!?" and thinking how the hell do you screw up plugging in a cable? Always wondered how they made their machines smoke...


Opened it back up, and the smell was horrid. That's when I noticed R1 was toasted. So I hit up Lampdog and asked if he could snap an up-close photo of the resistor, as you can see my bands were unreadable. There were no photos online where I could see it.


So knowing the band colors, if you can't calculate them in your head, you can use a site like this to tell you what it is


http://www.digikey.com/en/resources/con ... ode-4-band


I'de say you can be sure of it, every single time. And don't let some shop tell you otherwise. Mechanics are like this. They will use buzz words, and take a persons lack of knowledge in that subject to charge them way more money for what they are REALLY doing. :?


And resistor being burnt was in every single subject about 8-Outs making MPC smoke


You can even experiment with different resistors around the same value I posted, and you get slightly variants in sound change. But for a dollar or so, if it doesn't be the case for some reason, it's no big deal. You can safely turn the machine on without the resistor being there. You just won't have audio in or out, or pads haha :nod:
User avatar
By Star One Thu Apr 02, 2015 8:00 pm
MOUNTING WITHOUT SUPPORT PLATE

As you can see in Jibber's photos he's modified the the support from the S series to fit into his.

Other guides will show people mounting it this way.

With a single screw on the digital, and using nuts to secure the 1/4" jacks down. And this is sufficient enough.

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Now the important thing with that shelf, is grounding. You'll notice theres a visable ground plane in each corner where the screws would normally go. This grounds to the brass posts, and into the chassis.

IF you mount it this way, the way I have, it will be a VERY good idea to make this simple ground for each side.

This is what you will need. 2 screws, 2 nuts, 2 peices of wire (one longer then the other) and 2 of these little clips (Can get them at auto part shop!)
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Longer one on the right side
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I had a bunch of old screws, when I find old electronics laying around outside, I take them home and salvage stuff from them. These are the same size as the ones on the bottom panel of your 2000XL if you want to take 2 of those, it's your choice
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IMPORTANT! Now the resistors the post side thats next to your screw is on the ground plane, so it won't matter, but whenever doing this sort of thing, make sure your clearing any leads or pads of something else

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User avatar
By Star One Thu Apr 02, 2015 8:39 pm
MAKING A 34-PIN IDE EXTENSION CABLE



I used this one, you can use any if you find an extension (male to female) just use this photo for reference if you go elsewhere

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055D9KMG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'll need:

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Safety goggles is mandatory here. Unless you wanna literally put out an eye. When your clipping the thick plastic, it's going to come firing off at a decent speed.


As your extension cable is 40-Pin, and you only need 34-Pin, using a pencil or marker, mark the pins you are going to remove. So on the non-red side, count in 6 wires.

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Slowly use your knife to cut along, and separate the wires to cut. If you aren't patient you can slip and cut other wires, and have to start over with a new one
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After cutting all the way down end to end, you can clip the separated group of wires out.
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Now you can cut the lip around those 6 pins. Because you will be removing this part, so the cable will fit into the proper slot.
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Now snip each pin off
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With the edge gone, there is now nothing holding the top clip on. Remove the top clip piece and set it aside.
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You now need to remove the rest of the wires here
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Now cut the entire thing off. You'll see why I say safety glasses soon as you try and cut it. It's going to take some strength so try and be precise.

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Shave it down as necessary
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It's now the right size
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With both ends done, you can start gluing the clips back togeather
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So now it will still not fit. The slots are not in the correct position. To correct this, we need to open the slot up. You can try and fit it now, then refer to this image, to see what you are doing.

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Shave this piece off also
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Do a test fit, make adjustments as needed
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IMPORTANT REMINDER!

Notice in Jibbers photo

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You see the red wire is on the left side of the 8-OUT's. That is pin-1 on the 8-OUT board.

Pin-1 on the MPC is labeled with an arrow pointing at it. Looking at Jibbers photo you can see where the red wire is.



THIS HERE IS THE INCORRECT WAY

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If you do this in reverse, refer to the first post :nod:

I'll reverse my cable here soon and video of what the resistor looks like so you can see what happens. Then record footage of the errors you will find. Just for the sake of archiving information.
User avatar
By richie Fri Apr 03, 2015 2:10 am
Great thread. I'm gonna be pissed off if that XL board I replaced was really down to the resistor though. :Sigh:
User avatar
By Star One Fri Apr 03, 2015 2:24 am
Did you replace it from a bad 8-Out install? And it had the same symptoms? If so, yeah, this is the solution. If you still have the old board, you should swap the resistor. If not it's whatever, it's not like the information was out when it happened.


I feel bad for all the people who spent a couple hundred bucks, made to think it was a bunch of stuff wrong. :(
User avatar
By richie Fri Apr 03, 2015 4:41 am
@star one - I had purchased the XL from someone else.

Do not know if they first tried to do the 8 out install or what. When I received it, it looked like it booted up fine, could go through all the functions however only crackling came out of the main outs and when attempting to record in, it would be super faint. The board even rebooted on its own a couple times. Went ahead and reflowed everything on the main board, checked for broken contacts, no bulging caps, everything seemed right. The only thing I did not do any formal testing on were the resistors, go figure.

Pads seemed dead too, swapped the board, pads still dead, bought new pads sensors from MPC STUFF, everything is fine now - $350+ dollars later.

Had a look at my old board after this, the resistor didn't appear to be burnt and was discolored. What I'll do is buy a replacement resistor and let folks here know what happens.
User avatar
By Star One Fri Apr 03, 2015 4:44 am
Would be much appreciated for anyone reading it to hear if it does anything for you. You can prolly get the resistor for like 70p off Mouser, but having to paid 8 bucks for shipping.. That's why I went with a 100-pack, was still cheaper

Replacing the board, and having the pad sensors still not working with the new board, might of mean't those pad sensors were also actually dead. Not just cut off from the resistor.

So would take trying with both to see.
User avatar
By *Pilchard* Mon Apr 27, 2015 6:34 pm
Star, you are totally awesome !! :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :worthy: :nod:

Star One wrote:




It's a single resistor that fixes all these problems.



Been waiting a minute for my resistor pack to arrive so I could try this out.
Now my 'doorstop' that I was keeping only for spare parts is a fully functioning 2kxl again.

Well done for working this out and trying it.
Keep up the good work.

ps. I now have 49 resistors left over. So if anyone in the London area has the same problem, hit me up. I will even solder it in for you if necessary.

:-D :-D :-D :-D :) :) :) :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
User avatar
By richie Tue Apr 28, 2015 6:45 am
@Pilchard congratulations man. Which particular problem did the resistor fix for you?
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By *Pilchard* Tue Apr 28, 2015 11:02 am
@richie
Dead machine due to reversed connector during 8 outs installation.
It's really easy to swap the resistor on the 2kXL.

If I get time I will open up my 2k classic and try to find a similar resistor, photograph it and post here.
The classic is a little more difficult to open up so it will have to be when I have time on my hands.
User avatar
By sorinp Tue Apr 28, 2015 11:41 pm
Hi, Star One's instructions were dead on, I went to my technician today and showed him this thread and his photos and sure enough he tested the resistor Star One described and it was dead... So the moment of truth will be tomorrow he said, he was done for the day, but at least we found the problem it seems. My personal problem is the distortion that is present on the audio line, in the headphones and the LED meters in the RECORD SAMPLE screen are stuck halfway as if something overdriven is being fed in the line in. I hope this does the trick.

In order to pay it forward and possibly help somebody else out I took some photos this afternoon. Please note Star One mentioned the resistor labelled R1 on the circuit board in his thread but I don't know which circuit board that is (S2000? MPC 2000 XL?) In any case, on the MPC 2000 Classic that resistor is labelled R23 but you cannot see it from this angle... it's located exactly where Star One said it would be, and it's indeed YELLOW-PURPLE-GOLD-GOLD. That's the floppy drive to the left. Check out the pics. In the first one the M symbol (next to the Omega symbol under the number 4 on the voltmeter screen) means it's dead by the way, I just learned that today :-D The technician was very happy :lol: :lol: :lol: Hopefully I will report back with some good news...

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