PADS WEARING OUT???? HERE'S A SOLUTION

Yeah u can wipe the grease, no prob! You'll notice the difference trust me. Make sure the grease goes on smooth and cleanly.

Tell us how it goes!

just ordered up some grease. 10 syringes for 20 bucks. that should be enough to last me a long time. i could bathe in the stuff if i wanted.

!!!!!

Geez, you can cover the whole 16 pads twice with 1 syringe...hahaha

You can fix it for real with this - 2nd item:
http://www.hosfelt.com/en-us/dept_31.html

(the site is in frames so the main nav will be missing)

I ordered the small bottle to fix a Sequential Circuits SixTrak which had buttons that you had to mash if you wanted them to work. A very thin layer of this stuff and it was brand new. It sounds like the MPC pads use the same material so you will probably get many many more years out of this repair.

I think that the pad ware speeds up becase of the heat that the 100 generates
and this causees the graphite to ware/smuge quicker

if anyone wants to go over the top;

http://www.atacom.com/program/print_htm ... ARCT_AS_12


99.99% silver

spiral wrote:You can fix it for real with this - 2nd item:
http://www.hosfelt.com/en-us/dept_31.html

(the site is in frames so the main nav will be missing)

I ordered the small bottle to fix a Sequential Circuits SixTrak which had buttons that you had to mash if you wanted them to work. A very thin layer of this stuff and it was brand new. It sounds like the MPC pads use the same material so you will probably get many many more years out of this repair.

I see what you saying here this would maybe be a more permenent solution "Repairs tested to a half million key strokes" now that converted into MPC PAD banging terms would be maybe more than half that so lets say 250000

Im goig to cop this stuff for sure "Rubber Keypad Repair Kit" maybe adding a thermal layer after this stuff would even be better to compensate for the heat factors ,, anyway going to do both at once and see

I wouldn't use the thermal paste at all. The connection between the metal trace contacts (on the PCB) is completed by the carbon material on the rubber button. The contact needs to be clean and heat isn't really an issue since it is a simple mechanical contact. At the least you are wasting your time, at the worst you are creating a mess on your buttons and PCB which may or may not have detrimental long term effect.

The material in the repair kit is the same or similar (at least it works in the same principle: the material conducts electrical current) to what the Akai factory uses.

I noticed Hosfelt is out of stock of the smaller bottle. Do a google search for "Circuitworks Rubber button repair" and you'll find some other places that carry it if you only need to do a few buttons.

Good luck.

I could see it now... "I MESSED UP MY MPC1000s PADS!!! HELP!!!"

funny thing... when my pad quit responding i did a search asked a few questions then it dawned on me it might just need a better responsive connection so what i did we dissasemble my non fucntioning pad ,saw the carbon piece was slightly moves from its original place and nolonger working properly. so i took a little piece of aluminum foil placed it inderneath it in a way that it only made contact with the chip when i applied pressuse and now its back in top form been doing good for a few weeks now.

excellent thread guys! it looks like the mpc1k pads problem is almost sorted thanks to some clever dudes. (i was hoping for this to happen, because i know nothing at repairing electronics)
keep us posted on how it goes on long term.
thanks!

Its been about 2 days for me, and its still working fine.

I just got an idea though.

Poltergeist suggested using tin foil.

But why dont we try using....

SARAN WRAP!!!

Seriously. Since the circuit board is merely a mechanical connection, rather than an electrical one, then it should work just like the lil graphite pad. Graphite as a chemical element is not a great conductor of electricity or heat, so we know that the connection doesn't need to be an electrical conductor. Maybe a small folded square of saran wrap will work.


THIS IS WHAT WE CALL...GHETTO RIGGIN!

spiral wrote:I wouldn't use the thermal paste at all. The connection between the metal trace contacts (on the PCB) is completed by the carbon material on the rubber button. The contact needs to be clean and heat isn't really an issue since it is a simple mechanical contact. At the least you are wasting your time, at the worst you are creating a mess on your buttons and PCB which may or may not have detrimental long term effect.

The material in the repair kit is the same or similar (at least it works in the same principle: the material conducts electrical current) to what the Akai factory uses.

I noticed Hosfelt is out of stock of the smaller bottle. Do a google search for "Circuitworks Rubber button repair" and you'll find some other places that carry it if you only need to do a few buttons.

Good luck.

Ok cool thanks i recon ill just use the repair kit ,, seems to make sense i just thought the the heat was causing the carbon to wear quicker

can someone to a photograph guide to it?

if no one can, i MAY do it, not postivie i want to though.

Well I ordered the Circuit Works Rubber Keypad Repair Kit.
I did some looking around in my MPC1K. I got what I needed disassembled
but the whole pad assembly looks way to fragile. The pads are held on by metal clamps as stated above. It looks like the kind of metal that if you bend it too much it's going to break.
Plus the vague instructions to "Peel the pads off" seems a bit destructive to me.
Akai must offer the "entire" pad assembly as replacement part. The entire assembly seems only to be connected by a power and data cable. It seems like a perfect part to be replaced as a "whole" not just a pad at a time.
Does anyone know if the entire assembly is a replaceable part?
C'mon there must be an Akai certified repair person scanning these boards.
Plus it seems like there are WAAAAAY to many "me too's" on this board with Pad 1 and 2 issues. Hello Akai? Are you listening?
Also what really irks me is that while taking the MPC1K apart you realize that quite literally it is built like a tank. EXCEPT FOR THE PADS. Which really is what the whole thing is about. Without good pads it's a $900 door stop.