Post your questions, opinions and reviews of the MPC1000. This forum is for discussion of the OFFICIAL Akai OS (2.1). If you wish to discuss the JJ OS, please use the dedicated JJ OS forum
User avatar
By wudsiba Sat Jun 12, 2010 1:59 am
When I use the first Q link slider, it often cuts in and out. Constantly going back to zero then jumping to the setting it's supose to be at. What I'm wondering is do I need a new board that holds the sliders, or will just a new slider do it? Thanks in advance..
User avatar
By crossings Sat Jun 12, 2010 3:29 am
are you sure you didn't record some Q-Link movement in your sequence? try turning EVENTS off in the track mute screen and see if that's the case...
User avatar
By wudsiba Sat Jun 12, 2010 4:49 am
Good lookin, but no. This is just with no sequence running. Q link two is the one doing this, which is also the main one I use. The 1st one works fine, so I'm thinking it's just the slider itself. I'll get a new one from MPC stuff since their pretty cheap. If anyone knows better... Let me know.
By boogaloo Sat Jun 12, 2010 8:32 am
i had/have a very similar problem - q-link 2 outputting midi data it's not supposed to be outputting. so i unsoldered it and the problem remained even without the slider in its place. so it's probably the pcb board, not the pot. i soldered it back and it kinda fixed itself - not completely but it became less annoying. but i guess it's only temporarily.
User avatar
By wudsiba Sat Jun 12, 2010 1:35 pm
Right on. I already ordered a slider. (I have no patients when it comes to my equipment.) I'll throw the results up here when I get it.
By tonyman Thu Apr 30, 2020 2:31 am
wudsiba wrote:Right on. I already ordered a slider. (I have no patients when it comes to my equipment.) I'll throw the results up here when I get it.



I realize this post was made 10 years ago - I have been experiencing the same problem on my qlink 2 slider - I would describe it as latency, like extreme latency. It happens while controlling a parameter like a filter to a track and in trim mode. it is only with qlink 2. qlink 1 is absolutely fine. even in trim mode, when qlink 2 is screwing up, qlink 1 functions as it should.

At first I thought it was a memory thing, like in a computer if you've got too much shit running and it will lag - it is not that, rebooted the mpc1000 and even with nothing loaded I am still experiencing the problem. OP did not update their findings upon installing a new PCB deal so maybe that is the solution? This is a new problem for me, the slider was working fine up until about a month ago. I was hoping it would work itself out but it is not.

Any thoughts/suggestions/insight appreciated. I am taking it apart to clean it up and look at the connections. Worst case I will buy a new Qlink board I suppose. Hope everyone is good <3
By tonyman Mon May 25, 2020 2:25 pm
I wanted to update and note that I successfully identified the problem and I was able to repair it!

Taking the Q-link pcb out, unscrewing it and lifting it out, I found that the solder joint connecting the slider to the board had come loose. Pushing it to one side made the connection to the board while remaining untouched it was completely off. I removed the old solder and reattached it with a new joint (I did this to both prongs on the loose side) - now it works perfectly!

I think it became detached because of its age, obviously, but also - I have been getting into using the Q-links as "live performance tools". Bandpass filter on a distorted kick drum for example, and I've played it rather,enthusiastically, lets say... I believe this must have helped it loosen up quite a bit. :-D

It is a case like this that reminds me this is an aging piece of gear, but also how easy it is to work on. And it def was easy. I was high too. Cheers er'body !
User avatar
By Lampdog Mon May 25, 2020 2:35 pm
That is awesome, thanks for sharing that info!
User avatar
By NearTao Mon May 25, 2020 3:04 pm
one of my q-links had a greatly reduced range... I did similar to you, checking the PCB and such, and it all looked fine. I got a can of compressed air on a lark, and blew out a *huge* chunk of dust that restored it back to normal operating behavior.

The way these older devices fail can be pretty easy, if time consuming, to deduce.

Good job doing soldering work and bringing it back to life!