Absolutely butchered my soldering replacing a tactile switch

I understand if you want to mock me or laugh because I completely screwed up something that is actually quite easy but it's done now so let's just get that out the way. I'm an idiot and I don't deserve this fine piece of equipment

So the short is i burnt the pcb replacing a tactile switch, I started on numeric key just to see if I could do it (clearly not) and I burnt part of the board. I thought oh it's fine I can live with out the numeric key and I counted it as a loss and put the soldering iron down.

Now here's the worst bit the line from numeric is directly linked to the track mute switch....

Now my track mute button doesn't work and that is no doubt the most crucial button for me as everything I make revolves around track mutes.

I have a few questions or solutions that I could go for but I need advice from the internet hivemind.

1. I completely say **** it and buy a whole new upgraded pcb from mpcstuff for a pretty hefty price plus shipping + customs to the UK.

2. I try and mod the pcb with some copper wire and link up the track mute to another key that I don't use like next sequence or something.

3. I use a midi device to control my mpc purely for track mute. However I don't see an option for this on the free version of JJOS 3.16. But on the os2xl version I could assign a key to a midi device.

4. I keep soldering the board until there's nothing left.

Any help or advice is greatful and yes I know I'm a huge idiot

Post some pictures...

the connection is likely a ground problem, not a data trace, so it ought to be repairable for the other buttons without too much work.

What do you have for a soldering iron? Sounds like you had it *way* too hot for too long. My guess is that you didn't tin your iron before doing the work, and transferred way too much heat for way too long. If you need to push the iron into the device in the way I am guessing you did, burning out the board and traces is usually the result. Assuming that this is the only damage, it really should be repairable.

1. This is what I would call plan B or plan C... pretty pricey, but they will support you in case you had problems with their board. Check to see if they have them in stock though... I have ordered stuff from them that they don't have in stock any more (actually why I did the repair below).

2. This sounds foolish... I wouldn't do this as it will make everything work different than labelled. Plus you're just sacrificing *another* function you need.

3. Decent workaround... especially if you were going to upgrade your firmware at some point anyways. This is at least a good plan B (or plan A)... especially while you work out plan 4.

4. You mean keep at it until you get it working... which is what I'd call plan A.

I bought a busted MPC 500 (you can see the write ups I've done in my sig if you care)... nearly every trace was broken... but I was able to fix it with some care and patience.

This is a nice 'helping hand' NearTao. DIY?

Not a DIY... it's this one on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MDKXNPC/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They've got a few models, including with a light and magnifying glass. I kind of wish I had gotten those as well... might pick it up later... it's a super basic system and not too hard to mod either since it's really just a piece of metal with holes on the base lol.