FIX YOUR DEAD PADS - PICS & INSTRUCTIONS INSIDE

it's settled then. could someone help me do research? i'm officially gonna have to do this on my own.

i assume any flexible conductive material will work for the pads. we just got to find a cheap, reliable alternative.

remember - it has to be conductive.

could someone help me research this? the graphitestore has stuff, but i'll be looking at carbon as well.

also - when i start working on prototypes of this performance pad trick, i'll post how tos online.

and i'll also mod people's machines for some pocket change. all you'd have to do is send me all your pad sensors via ups (get insurance!) and i'll do the rest.

fuk $16 per pad! Looks like the DIY method is the way to go.. but we need to know what's gonna work and what's not gonna work, or else it's gonna cost alot of money trying to figure that out.

16 a pad isn't terrible, but i could do better. it'll be messy at first, but i think since i'll be staying with the 1000 for another couple years, it's worth doing.

Antonym wrote:16 a pad isn't terrible, but i could do better. it'll be messy at first, but i think since i'll be staying with the 1000 for another couple years, it's worth doing.

true, and if 16 a pad gets you the same pads back again, what's the point, if they're going to break down again?

here's an idea re: the aluminium foil idea someone came up with:

if the aluminium foil triggers the pads at full velocity when you hit them hard/soft/whatever, then clearly it is the lack of resistance between the two contact tracks on the base of the pad that causes this. what i reckon is if you get some of that conductive paint for repairing pushbutton switches, and paint it along each contact track, making sure not to make a bridge between the two, and then attach the aluminium foil to the underside of the rubber pad, then that may provide some resistance, and therefore the pad should work as before, ie the harder you hit the louder the sample is played. the aluminium foil should last ok, providing you've stuck it onto the rubber smoothly, and the paint should last a fair old while because it is not flexing.

maybe this would make a more robust pad, who know maybe even outlast mpc2500 pads? what do you reckon ant? you could sell pads reconditioned the nym way, or the modnar way! mine would be the more expensive ones tho, the 'premium' range.

hope this helps

I just wanted to add that i think the glue in the sensors/pads is too heat-sensitive.

As in, my malfunctioning pads(1 & 2) work way better for the 1st 30 minutes or so when i first power up. After a few hours, they get pretty unresponsive.

So, in the search for a good glue, look for one that dosen't react to heat. I think there must be some sort of heat-producing component under pads 1 & 2, in addition to those being everyone's favorite pads.

PS: I had pad 1 replaced @ vst, and I made an effort to baby that pad after that, and it is still failing...so that backs up my melting glue theory.

Anyone else notice the drop in pad 1 & 2 sensitivity after the 1k has been on a while?

Rough'nReady wrote:I just wanted to add that i think the glue in the sensors/pads is too heat-sensitive.

As in, my malfunctioning pads(1 & 2) work way better for the 1st 30 minutes or so when i first power up. After a few hours, they get pretty unresponsive.

So, in the search for a good glue, look for one that dosen't react to heat. I think there must be some sort of heat-producing component under pads 1 & 2, in addition to those being everyone's favorite pads.

PS: I had pad 1 replaced @ vst, and I made an effort to baby that pad after that, and it is still failing...so that backs up my melting glue theory.

Anyone else notice the drop in pad 1 & 2 sensitivity after the 1k has been on a while?

if that is true, silicon sealer should do the trick. it's flexible, and it doesn't perish with age like rubber, it is also heat resistant (they make car radiator hoses from it).

hope this helps.

is it viscous?

Antonym wrote:is it viscous?

well yes until it dries. sort of like sticky butter.

yo i'm thinking about for my mod job sticking all the pads on 1 bank, like older models...

I THINK I HAVE THE ANSWER EVERYBODY.

ok. in researching online for conductive graphite/carbon, i found that some come adhesive on one side. initially, this didn't strike me as particularly important, but then i thought...wait.

what if the mpc1000's pads composition could be changed COMPLETELY!?

right now, it goes pad/carbon/glue/sensor as displayed in my poor graphic below...

PADPADPADPAD
CARBONCARBON
GLUE GLUE
SENSOR SENSOR

note the composition here. this means that force applied to the pad is transfered to the carbon, which is transferred to the sensor. however, the force is not always STRAIGHT DOWNWARD - it's often at the angle at which your fingers are pressing the pads. this stresses the glue, causing it toeventually go loose, no matter what type.

that sucks.

however, check this out. i thought to myself - why have glue at all? in fact, why not simplify the pieces here?

WHY NOT ATTACH GRAPHITE WITH AN ADHESIVE SIDE STRAIGHT TO THE UNDERBELLY OF THE PAD ITSELF??!

the issue was - would the pad bend far enough to allow contact to be made? to test this, i removed just one rubber pad from my mpc. to be safe, i'm using one that i've repaired several times and plan to replace anyway.

here's what i did to make sure it'd work. i shaved some lead off a pencil and then put the pad over the pile. i hit the pad as if i would hit the mpc so some graphite got picked on the underbelly of the pad. then i moved it to a clean part of the paper and did it again. trembling with anticipation, i removed the pad from the paper.

and saw a perfect dot of pencil lead. **** yeah.

right now, i'm using the graphite which came with the mpc and i'm glue sticking it to the underside of the pad itself.

if this works, the answer is easier than we thought. this method will be more durable than the original by TENFOLD, as well as more predictable.

more on this later.

Conductive Carbon Adhesive Tabs

Double sided carbon adhesive tabs are convenient and in some cases may be used in place of conductive adhesives. Available in three sizes: 9mm, 12mm and 25mm diameter. Thickness of the carbon tabs is 0.25mm (excluding backing and protecting liners).
77825-09 Carbon Adhesive Tabs, 9 mm Dia. 100 15.00
77825-12 Carbon Adhesive Tabs, 12mm 100/pk 17.00
77825-25 Carbon Adhesive Tabs, 25mm 50/pk 33.50
77825-12-SP Ultrathin Carbon Adhesive Tabs, 12mm Dia.

http://www.emsdiasum.com/microscopy/pro ... ctive.aspx

ant, you rule!

when you order this stuff and test it out, keep us posted with the results. for the price of these tabs, it's definitely worth giving it a try.

right now, i'm actually just gluesticking my carbon to the pads on all of my pads.

this should work for a long while. however, i have a hard time finding the single side adhesive version of these carbon pieces...ie a conductive carbon "sticker"