FIX YOUR DEAD PADS - PICS & INSTRUCTIONS INSIDE

the other option is to use double sided tape to stick the graphite you already have onto your rubber pad underbelly

whatever your methods, this WORKS. i can't believe they didn't do it to begin with.

You have to remove the 4 screws along the bottom of the front panel too!!! This wasn't mentioned in your directions above and I put a couple of dents in my mpc1000 while trying to remove it. DAMN IT!!!

yo my method of gluing the graphite to the pad itself works SO GODDAMN WELL, seriously.

this is the way. it's as if it was new from the store. this is the way to do it.


glue your graphite pads to the underbelly of your mpc 1000 pads. it works better than the initial AKAI design

i fcckin' rule.

peace
nym

Antonym wrote:yo my method of gluing the graphite to the pad itself works SO GODDAMN WELL, seriously.

this is the way. it's as if it was new from the store. this is the way to do it.


glue your graphite pads to the underbelly of your mpc 1000 pads. it works better than the initial AKAI design

i fcckin' rule.

peace
nym

yoant, how's the sensitivity on those? it would appear to me that the graphite needs to be held away from the contacts on the corners so that it bends and provides more contact area the harder you hit the pad. afaik the underside of the rubber pad itself is domed. this would mean you're sticking a flat, brittle substance to a curved, slightly flexible component, and imho i think the graphite will break again. i dunno, just speculation, but i would be interested to know how long these last. now, when you said about the graphite dust, THAT was an interesting idea, how about spreading flexible glue (like silicon sealer) on the under side of the rubber pad, and then sprinkle graphite dust on that. see what you reckon, maybe there'd just be no conductivity between the dust particles, who knows? anyway friday march the 10th goes down in history as "nym's eureka moment" day.

first - the velocity sensitivity as of right now is WAY WAY WAY better than ever before. this is the most expressive i've ever seen my 1000's pads, even after purchasing it. even after repairing it like i did last thing.

this is so far the very best method. every pad triggers 100 percent of the time at more accurate velocities than ever before.

2nd - your concerns about the "flat, brittle substance to a curved, slightly flexible component" are valid, but i think you underestimate the graphite's flexibility! this stuff is not as brittle as one would think. in fact, it adapts really well to the curve - as it really is supposed to do. consider this: the sheet bends each time you hit it in order to make a contact to begin with, right?

my solution is pretty much the opposite of that - it's already bent - to make the contact, you simply push it back into its original shape. same motion is involved, opposite motion (as well as a better-glued surface). did someone say antonym?

i'm really excited about this. i didn't even have to purchase any new parts - i simply made a VERY obvious design adjustment that akai should have made ages ago.

repeat - ages ago. it's almost obscene that they didn't see this. i'm no conspiracy guy, but it's just about so obvious that they would have had to have planned this.

cool

might find me doing this mod sometime...

What would be better to use, double sided tape or glue? If glue, which type of glue?

double sided tape. it'd be smoother. make sure it's not a weak adhesive. i've seen different types of double sided tape, so you have options. this'd be permenant, as removing the tape would probably rip the graphite.

if you must use glue, use anything that you can easily peel off late in case you want to do the above. glue will probably come undone way in the future like it did before - but now, for me, a LOT more glue holds the pad in place from more surface area.

if the graphite sheet eventually breaks (just if, but i don't think it will if it's glued properly) those adhesive sheets are real cheap and will probably work even better. however, i wont buy those til i have to.

still workin fine!

Antonym wrote:still workin fine!

Good!
Isn't it hard though, hitting the pads with your fingers crossed?
jk. Thanks for the info, keep us posted.

Hi,

i thaught about the easiest way to replace your broken pads is buying a mpd16... does someone use it ? are that the same pads as mpc1k has ?
in germany the mpd16 costs about 150$...
then you have got 16 new pads you can use in addition to your 14-15 broken pads : )
does someone know how much a pad-element (the 16 pads to build into your mpc yourself) costs and where you can get it ?

trigger happy

paris

hey.

you can't use 16 levels with the mpd, and that's a shame. the mpd addition is nice, but i'd much rather just use my mpc pads esp because i travel with it.

pad replacements cost 16 bucks at vst technologies, but it's the exact same thing as the first pads - which means that they will break down as well.

my method is free, and better than the original.

16 $ ? thats not too much - what do you mean with "not exact the same"? are the pads not original mpc1k pads ? is it difficult to replace them ?

my pads are fine for now, but i think they will not work forever... one pad doesn't work sometimes, but i think no metal-stuff is broken as you described above, i think some dust came into it. Sometimes it works perfectly, sometimes it works only if i hit it a couple of times before. but i can live with it. as you said, there is the 16-levels feature. if the pad does not work i use the 16-levels-feature to "make it work".