Data Wheel Fix! Got a plastic 45 adapter laying around?

I was messing with my data wheel after soldering in a new replacement. and I started making some changes.

I first made a bracket out of an old CD install kit I found in the garage to support the actual switch, and to prevent undue stress from sideways torque and pressure on the switch itself. I just used a side-cutter, a lighter, and some hot glue to make it all fit together.

Next, I sanded down the stock data wheel small enough so you can remove it through the hole, removing almost all of the bottom lip, and 90% of the traction teeth. After a little bit of adjusting and shaving, I placed the 45 adapter right on top of the stock wheel, no glue, just a very tight pressure fit.

Being that the 45 adapter is smooth on the bottom, and the painted surface of the case is as well, the new 'Grubetized' wheel actually rides on the surface of the case (since the 45 wheel is slightly too large to fit through the hole), allowing complete 360 degree support for the rotation of the wheel. This means no more death wobble from this new design.

Although I can't confirm this, logically, you would assume that the reason the data switches go out all the time is from undue stress and pressure from the weight of your hand torquing the switch into positions it was not designed to handle, eventually causing premature failure of the internal components.

With this simple mod (probably took me 2 hours, while I was designing it), you can save your data wheel a life of torment and neglect, by providing the switch with support and removing all lateral stress; and it only costs a few bucks.

Ill post some pictures as soon as I can (probably won't be step by step yet).

~Nathaniel the Grublet

brilliant. that was a much needed creation, and it sounds like you tackled it from exactly the right angle!

good job.

You are my only inspiration, Nym.

please up those pictures when you get a chance.

have you thought about any other mods now that your gears are turning?

i've been fooling with the idea of replacing a qlink sider with an infrared motion detector.

http://www.acroname.com/robotics/parts/ ... 2D120.html

Actually, I was thinking of designing a fiberglass mold to tip the screen up a few degrees, and still have it permanently affixed. I used to make molded sub woofer boxes using fiberglass, so it shouldn't be too hard... I just wonder if I could make the original, then have injection molds made for one-off's that I could sell.

Is there anything hard soldered down, or is it just the ribbon cables that go to the screen? Does the screen fit through the hole when you remove the plastic screen?

Check your email Nym

~Grub

TEST IMAGE

how do you post pics on here?[/img]

The Grublet wrote:how do you post pics on here?[/img]

copy the url. Paste it into hear. THen highlight the url and click the img button

Sorry about the poor quality pics, my digi took a #$%@!


This is the jalopy. I cut a hole with a multi-bit until it fit the data wheel stud. I heated it up a bit with a lighter to make it snug. Then I took a couple scraps (which were right angles) and slid them under the main support. Just hot-glued it into place and held it level while it dried.


Different angle. same thing, notice, the only thing you really have to do right is make the center hole the correct size.


This shows the old data wheel shaved down (where my nail is) and the 45 adapter slid over the top (the teeth should hold it in if you sand it to the right size).


This is the top view (I did a quick spray-paint job, if you have a cool adapter, you could leave it... mine said Sony on it).


This is it installed from the front, the wheel does make contact with the surface of the case, but it is smooth and very solid, in the picture, I am putting significant pressure on the wheel. the wheel does not ride on the hidden bracket below, and the data wheel is now removable (pluses/minuses to this).

haha that's so ghetto yet so great

I'm going for ultra-ghetto soon, just wait

...i've been fooling with the idea of replacing a qlink sider with an infrared motion detector....

Do you think it would work the same way as the slider?

The Grublet wrote:Actually, I was thinking of designing a fiberglass mold to tip the screen up a few degrees, and still have it permanently affixed. I used to make molded sub woofer boxes using fiberglass, so it shouldn't be too hard... I just wonder if I could make the original, then have injection molds made for one-off's that I could sell.


~Grub

Id buy one

It would involve cutting the main case, which would make most people uncomfortable, but I'm still going to work on it soon, see if it works or not. whats a new case, $80?