Ultra-Ghetto Pad Fix Option... Why not??

Ultra-Ghetto Pad Fix Option... Why not??

HERES THE DEAL

The 'Ultra-Ghetto' Pad-Fix is another option I just finished assembling... And It works surprisingly well. It is the second in my line of Ghetto-Fixins for the MPC1000... If you didn't catch the 45Wheel Mod, you obviously missed the bus. (':P')

First off: Mad Props to Nym for literally PIONEERING this fix. Without this Forum, and Nym's knowhow and expertise (you tube videos, etc), I would not have got this done. I Had only soldered once before this, and I have never even used an MPC 1000 before tonight (it works now); I would have been lost as hell without the knowledge base available here.

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A week ago, I ordered up the same switches/buttons that Nym Used, after doing some reading on here. They are exactly like in the pad fix videos. Being that I copped a 1000 Two weeks ago, on Ebay, with some bunk pads (only paid $375... wasn't expecting much), and that I needed to try this thing out... I started murdering the pads the day it showed up busted.

I went through the trying to fix the bitc# as$ little squares, tried the tinfoil method (don't do it, it will cause a direct short and eventually it will cause bigger problems), and I even tried steel-wool dust, graphite, etc... all bullshit methods.

SO... These buttons/sensors showed up. I immediately de-soldered the original wires from the stock sensors and began scheming. Using Nym's pad fix videos as a guide, and not having the supplies to mold my own buttons, I decided to try to figure out a way to use the stock rubber for the time being (since I was Jonsin' For Som' Beats Outta Dis Beeeooch)...

Anyway.

I Basically ended up drilling a hole through the middle of the stock sensor, and the button frame (everything but the rubber pad), with a half inch uni-bit (basically a drill bit that steps up in size increments). I then removed the fiberglass sensor piece from the clamped assembly, cut a notch out of the side where the new sensor wires needed to go, hot glued the switch into place onto the fiberglass (including shielding the solder-points with the hot glue)... and put the metal piece on top of the fiberglass, instead of underneath.

with the sensor sticking up through the top of the modified fiberglass (it is bottom mounted), and the metal on top of that (with a round hole now for the sensor to be exposed), the very top of the switch is almost exactly flush with the top surface of the metal plate... Just add the pad, crimp, and slap a piece of carpet-tape on the bottom (so there is no conductivity from the switch to the pad-frame), and install the pads when your putting on the case, you can affix them, but I just lined them up and put the case on.

It took some time and sweat (some itchy fiberglass dust too), but for around 85 bucks, your set. I was using sub-par tools, so mine is kinda hacked, But thats how Grublets roll.... The good thing is you will never see it!

A FEW THINGS TO NOTE:

This method will completely destroy your stock sensor.
(Cause you drilled through the m-r'f'n center of it)

This method is Ultra-Ghetto.
(If you don't own any *Bling*, or have no idea what *Bling* is... Do not attempt it)

This method will make your case fit more snugly.
(including reducing the height of the 'f' buttons above the pads)

This method will not let you do 'extreme' corner hits.
(unless you really cut the metal plate hole larger than the 1/2 inch size I did (didn't have a bigger uni-bit)... If you made the hole more like 3/4 inch round, I believe the response would improve greatly, but I'm not much of a corner kinda guy.)('8)')


I'm only adding these pictures to make things more confusing, seeing as my camera was drunk at the time of these photos.

Let me know who is crazy ghetto enough to roll hard like I do.

Fix Yer Pads!

Heres the Drunk cam.... never shop at WalMart, If the camera has 3.2 Mega pixels, but doesn't have the ability to focus.... is it really a 3.2?....

What kind of buttons did you buy?

same as suggested by Nym. I ordered from CUI Inc. they are called SR-D-18s force sensors. an 18x18 mil button. If you order, talk to James S. he knows the deal, tell him Nate sent you.

The Grublet wrote:same as suggested by Nym. I ordered from CUI Inc. they are called SR-D-18s force sensors. an 18x18 mil button. If you order, talk to James S. he knows the deal, tell him Nate sent you.

Sounds good...and the price for one single sensor!?

with shipping, around 6 bucks.

The Grublet wrote:same as suggested by Nym. I ordered from CUI Inc. they are called SR-D-18s force sensors. an 18x18 mil button. If you order, talk to James S. he knows the deal, tell him Nate sent you.

hey grublet -

wanna clarify - do you mean on www.cui.com the SR-D-18s - dome 18mm x 4mm button pressure sensor?

also - didn't nym say these where used in the other mpc's or am a dreaming.

thanks for putting up you pix - they will really help - just about to place an order here.

cheers

f

Yeah,

SR-D-18S, (CUI Stock Number 072-3002)...
(force sensor, low profile, dome)

The Telephone number is 1-800-275-4899



I don't know about these being used in the others. (NYM: ??) I thought they used something different... But I haven't had to tear my 2000xl down that far yet.

(hopefully won't ever have to!)

other mpcs use interlink electronic FSRs.

CUI gets these sensors from INABA rubber which is the company that provided the material for the original sensors. they also are the company that makes that robot dog, or parts for it.

they call the rubber "inastomer."

Frank Eventoff, the inventor of the FSR, now has his own business where he creates and messes with his own blend, what he calls "pressure transducing rubber."

i'm actually working on making my own PTR blend using vytaflex and tiny carbon particles for a couple home experiments.

they call the rubber "inastomer."

In-Ass-Tumor

Sorry.

take your distance to focus

Im going to do this soon and I was wondering when you say it's $6 to ship do you mean for all 16 buttons or individually.

Yeah damn... for $6 total Id do it, I think thats probably per sensor. Is this method more reliable than the ones offered by VST? ($8ea/$104set)

Take your distance to focus... ha!

I have a better cam now, and I can re-take some photos soon. I tried to cheap out and buy a Walmart brand camera, and it didn't work.

As for the pads, It was 86 bucks to my door, If I remember correctly.

?Yes it is more reliable, in my opinion.