Post your questions, opinions and reviews of the MPC1000. This forum is for discussion of the OFFICIAL Akai OS (2.1). If you wish to discuss the JJ OS, please use the dedicated JJ OS forum
By loudmusic Fri Sep 29, 2023 7:24 am
distortedtekno wrote:Nice job.
Let me clarify a few things that may help out (since I already replaced my LEDs before being able to have access to a camcorder).

I found that it's easier to remove the end cap (plastic side on the right) before removing the cable by the volume knob.

Desoldering braid is something I avoid (unless used for other purposes like removing bridges), as it can be tricky and damage the pads of a PCB.
So I recommend a desoldering iron...
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062731&cp=&pg=3&sr=1&origkw=soldering&kw=soldering&parentPage=search
or at least a Vacuum Desoldering Tool....
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062745&cp=&pg=3&sr=1&origkw=soldering&kw=soldering&parentPage=search

As far as the polarity of the LEDs are concerned, the long leg is the anode (+), and the shorter is the cathode (-).
On the PCB you'll see markings where the LED is to be soldered.
These marking don't indicate "+ or -".
They look more like this... " |> " .The larger side of this triangular.
To make it simpler, refer to the pic below.

Image



"|>" which means what? how can I tell on the actual LED what the polarity is? legs are cut even so i can't go by length
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By richie Sat Sep 30, 2023 1:33 am
You have to be careful where you source the LED's from as the fakes have spyware on them. They can make it easier for hackers to get into your beats again.