Share your knowledge on these two classic MPCs
By soulkid8 Sat Mar 25, 2023 7:48 pm
Hi guys,
I replugged my MPC 3000 recently after a long time not using it and I encountered a problem with the memory.. As soon as I want to load a .SOUND or to sample something I have this message appearing:
"Attention! There is not enough sound memory to perform this operation. Please delete one or more sounds ans try again. You may want to install more memory."

N.B. If I load a .SEQ from my zip it's okay but any .SOUND (even a very light one) doesn't load and show same message.
Do you think the memory sticks can be broken after a long time of not using the MPC?

I tried also to remplace the system with the last one v. 3.5 but nothing works, blank screen so I put back the 3.11 chips that were working good back in the days.

Another thing that bugs me is that if I want to record a sequence I can't hear the click of the metronom although it's activated in the settings..
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By Telefunky Sun Mar 26, 2023 8:34 pm
If „sound memory“ is off, then in consequence there‘s no click.
If you live in a coastal area, there may be corrosion on the Simm (memory) sockets.
(which would be the easiest case, clean with pure alcohol, isopropanol, Deoxit)
Inspect memory chips and if you have multiple, insert only a single one to identify a flawed Simm.
If nothing changes, then a fault in the address decoding logic is likely and you need a circuit diagram to trace the logic design.
By soulkid8 Mon Mar 27, 2023 2:03 pm
Thanks for your help, it makes sens for the no click sound.
I cleaned the Simm which didn't look rusty or dirty btw but it's the same problem.

I bought this used MPC on ebay long time ago and the previous owner installed an internal Zip driver but it has never really worked.. As soon as I insert a Zip cartidge inside, it reboots the MCP. So i've never used this internal drive but I could still save my beats on an external Zip and it was working for years.. until today :- /

Here is some pics of inside:
https://freeimage.host/i/HNNmJVf
https://freeimage.host/i/HNNmHoG
https://freeimage.host/i/HNNmdP4

https://freeimage.host/i/HNNphEx
https://freeimage.host/i/HNNpekP

On the 2 last images, we can see he linked the scsi adaptator to the SCSI card with a glued ribon. There is also those 2 little wires soldered to plug to the internal Zip drive instead of the W203 cable that has been cut.

Thanks in advance if you have any ideas or suggestions how to solve this..
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By Telefunky Mon Mar 27, 2023 6:00 pm
Thanks, good pictures... but I couldn‘t fully identify the routing of the former owner‘s scsi mod.
Anyway, it‘s unlikely this is the source of the current problem because you‘ve used the machine in this condition before.

Did you check the backup battery ? It‘s likely to have dropped over the years of non-use.
(and easy to replace, just get a standard battery holder and solder it in place)

If you lack the tools, and/or your patience is way too short you may improvise a test battery from some cheapo LED decoration chain. They usually have 3V battery compartments.
Snip off the lights and twist the cable to the proper locations. :shock: :mrgreen:
(I know it‘s technical bs, but probably the most accessible method)
On a side note: I‘ve recently built the 2nd release of a LED illumination for my 4k display from such a $2 item (using the MPC‘s 5V instead of batteries) and it works great.

The 2 cables instead of W203 steal 5V scsi termination power from the circuit, possibly from an inappropriate location, if the MPC stalls when the drive gets engaged.
But since your external drive is located on the same bus, it cannot be simply removed because the bus is now „unknown“ due to that extension fixed by glue.

Dead backup batteries often may trigger strange responses.

best of luck, Tom
By soulkid8 Mon Mar 27, 2023 8:37 pm
Allright thx! I think I will try with the batteries holder, if I do understand good it can be something like this:
https://www.conrad.ch/fr/p/tru-components-sbh-321-3as-boite-de-piles-2x-lr6-aa-raccordement-par-fils-1672618.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw_YShBhAiEiwAMomsEHjybUwI4CCEdwnJgnZwNfPIlydiU8zEpycW4lHMNjpRN2gmIUfpzRoCbn8QAvD_BwE&utm_source=google-shopping-de&utm_medium=search&utm_campaign=shopping-online-de&utm_content=shopping-ad_cpc&WT.srch=1&ef_id=CjwKCAjw_YShBhAiEiwAMomsEHjybUwI4CCEdwnJgnZwNfPIlydiU8zEpycW4lHMNjpRN2gmIUfpzRoCbn8QAvD_BwE%3AG%3As
It's a 2x AA 1,5V batteries holder.
I have than to remove the original coin 3V BR2032 battery and keep the two sides that are holding it to attach red and black cable on them? Sounds right?
I'm not very confident with soldering things on the motherboard as i never did it before ^^'
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By Telefunky Mon Mar 27, 2023 9:46 pm
If you‘re not familiar with soldering, you might replace the 2032 with a fresh one... even though it‘s not intended for replacement. At least for a test it‘s sufficient.

First you break of the contact that‘s welded to the battery by plain force with a sharp screwdriver. Push the blade between contact and battery and then twist left/right a couple of time, the contact will break.
(be careful and apply force only into the lever movement, hold the battery while twisting the screwdriver)
Then remove some of the shrink plastic to get the battery out.
Remember the battery’s position. Try to keep as much shrink as possible in place.
When the battery is out, bend the contact inwards again so it can make touch with the new battery.
Put a new battery in place and fix the contact by tape (or whatever) tightly strung around it.
(it‘s not the final solution but just to check if the new battery wakes up the MPC‘s memory logic)
If all goes well (my guess is 50%) ask someone with skills to solder in a proper battery holder.