MPC 60 FAQ / MPC 60 BIBLE / Please Contribute

elmacaco wrote:I find that the older and newer scsi zip drives are more reliable, they seemed to have had a bad run somewhere in the middle.

maybe that click of death site has info on serial numbers.

I know someone who works at Iomega, so I'll ask her and post later this week.

peace

Ask her if they have a wherehouse full of old scsi zip 100, and how many times you'll have to screw her to get them

LMAO!!!! Now now Elmac, I'm a married cat, so I doubt if that's going to be an option However, she is a really old and dear friend of mine, so I'll see what I can do.

peace

ill buy 2 from you if you can get them...

some interesting stuff here

http://grc.com/tip/codfaq1.htm

Posted by Deepdowninside

Instructions Please Contact Backlight Dealer For Specifics
If you order from Telesis they send you a brand new one included are some decent instructions. However you will need a soldering kit and some solder. You can pick one up at Walmart Lowes or Home Depot. Any hardware store should have the tools. You will need a phillip head screwdriver. There alot of screws to keep track of. Becareful not to rip the top of chasis off the base of the MPC60II. Once you have open the 60 you will have to remove the display. There are screws connecting it to the display housing. You must remove the screws only. should be about 4. One in each corner that are holding it in. Once you take it out you may have a wire connecting directly to the board of the dispaly. If Not Skip down to the next set of instructions. You simply remove your old display and solder the copper contact points of your new backlight to the board. ( I dunno mine was different and these directions are from Telesis please investigate before taking my word for it)

If you have a free floating wire in a clear tube just remove the old diplay. Push or remover the plastic surrounding the wire and solder the wire to the 2 copper contact points to your new backlight. CAREFUL not to burn your new backlight with the iron! Also watchout for too much solder on the iron drripping on to backlight!. Once soldering is done you should have some eletrical tape and tape up the soldering points. Similar to repairing a split wire if you worked on RC cars before. When your done and put your screws back in. Then plug up your 60 and turn it on and watch the light show! Isnt it bright? You just may need your shades so umm becareful.

One more thing if you have never soldered before practice on something before working on your MPC the idea is just to bond two metal points with solder. It shouldnt take a lot very very little is required. Have steady hands and take your time!!!! Alternatively you could pay Telesis to do it for you but you still have to send them either your MPC or remove the display and send it to them. The advantage to that is that if anything goes wrong with your backlight you can always call them up and request a replacement. Telesis not your cup of tea give VST in pasdena a call. They are a bit more expensive but seem like real pros and may have a faster turn around than most. You can say "F&*C that man, Im a BALLER!" and ship your MPC to Forat. Just be ready to pay the man cuz he dont take IOU's!

DO NOT USE HD DISKS YA LAZY BASTARDS!!!!!

this is gonna sound silly, but....

I wanted to mess around with VSTi's with the eps while both the eps and 60 are playing, and finding out the 60 had a midi-thru option just saved me a couple hundred bucks on a new midi controller!

midi thru can be switched on at MIDI/2

thought it might be a good idea to mention it since it's not obvious that there's a midi-thru option by just looking at the back panel.

you can get some cailube at a music store and put a little bit in the fader at a time until it smoothes out, it gets rough as the old lube dries out. Be very careful if you get it in a spraycan, just spray it into a plastic cup and just use a dropper to put it in little by little while you work the slider to smooth it out. Too much of this stuff can damage the electronics.

Also do this while it is off and let it dry out overnight before switching it back on.

The best cailube is the gel looking stuff, but if you get the 5% spray can just spray in the plastic cup like I said above and go slow until you get it sliding really smooth.

Hey guys , glad that i 'm back.I had this problem with my 60 last week , as you may already know.


''''I was playin around with my 60 when suddenly out of the blue ,the screen started to fill with random letters , all mixed up and no sense.I shut off the mpc.I open it again and now the whole LCD was black.I mean the LCD was full of dark blocks with a frame of light at the sides.I shut the 60 and restart it many times.Most of the times the LCD was just dark blocks but some times a series of letters that don't make any sense appeared(as if someone from outer space was trying to tell me something Very Happy )'''''


''''Additionally i check for the cables to see if the are all good connected and they seem to be ok.To conclude i started up the 60 with a floppy in it , in order to autoload it.There was a slight floppy drive movement but no loading hapened.It seems that it isn't just the screen that crashed but the whole system.I don't know maybe the 60 passed away? Crying or Very sad''''


The thing is i found a great tech that was able to fix it.The problem was the ribbon cable that transfers data to the LCD.With the movement of the LCD (front to back) it got bad or loosen connections that caused the 60 to malfunction.
The tech is '' AUDIO & VISION '' - telephone : 210 6919931.

Just to let you know.

From here:

http://blog.retrosynth.net/archives/2005/08/fun_with_akai_m.html#more

August 06, 2005
Fun with Akai MPC-60 floppy drives
Turned on my Akai MPC-60 this past week and the floppy drive was dead. The original drive was a long discontinued 720k Mitsubishi. Opening up my other Akai gear I discovered Teac FD-235HF models. Doing some snooping around the net it turns out there were more than a dozen variations of this drive, however Teac still makes one model that should work just fine, the FD-235HFA529. This is still available at a number of online retailers. Being impatient I decided to visit Weird Stuff instead of waiting for a mailorder drive to show up. I picked up a FD-235HF3240 with even more jumper options than the current model for $4.95. While the jumper arrangement of the 3240 appears similar to the 5636 model, they are in fact totally different. It tooks some serious digging to turn up the jumper settings by I finally found the information I needed in a 1994 usenet posting. Seeing how I had some difficulty in collecting Teac drive information I decided to take some pictures before closing the MPC60 up.

Jumper settings for the Teac FD-235HF3240
A1 - B1 DS0 Drive select 0
B1 - C1 DS1 Drive select 1
A2 - B2 DS2 Drive select 2
B2 - C2 DS3 Drive select 3
A4 - B4 RY34 Ready output on Pin 34
B4 - C4 DC34 Disk Change output on Pin 34
C3 - C4 DC2 Disk Change output on Pin 2
C4 - D4 DC4 Disk Change output on Pin 4
A3 - B3 HA density set automatically
B3 - C3 HI2 density set by HD IN on pin 2
C3 - D3 HO2 density (HD OUT) output on pin 2
D3 - D4 HO4 density (HD OUT) output on pin 4
D1 - D2 LHI ---or---
D2 - E2 LHI HD IN low is high density
D1 - E1 LHO ---or---
E1 - E2 LHO HD IN high is high density
E2 - F2 HMK half mask for INDEX/READ-DATA
F3 - G3 NMK no mask for INDEX/READ-DATA
F1 - G1 IR LED on when: (Drive Select AND Ready)
G1 - G2 ML motor on when: (Motor ON AND LED on)
E4 - F4 ACD disable auto-checking
G3 - G4 REN disable auto-recalibration
E2 - E3 HF ---or---
E3 - E4 HF must always be in for this version of drive
For the MPC-60 jumper DS0, HI2, RY34, HF, REN, and FG. The drive came jumpered with DS1, HA, DC34, HF, REN, and FG.

Jumper settings for the Teac FD-235HFA529 (also FD-235HF6554 and FD-235HF6573
A1 - B1 DS0 Drive select 0
B1 - C1 DS1 Drive select 1
A2 - B2 DS2 Drive select 2
B2 - C2 DS3 Drive select 3
C3 - D3 REN disable auto-recalibration
D3 - E3 ACD(a) disable auto-checking
E3 - F3 ACD(b) disable auto-checking
D2 - E2 RY34 Ready output on Pin 34
E1 - E2 DC34 Disk Change output on Pin 34
E1 - F1 DC2 Disk Change output on Pin 2
G1 - G2 HA density set automatically
F1 - G1 HI2 density set by HD IN on pin 2
F1 - F2 HO2 density (HD OUT) output on pin 2
F3 - G3 IR LED on when: (Drive Select AND Ready)
For the MPC-60 jumper DS0, HI2, RY34, ACD(b), and FG. Teac also recommends bridging S14 on the bottom side of the drive controller to force 720k mode.

Ok, I got a Program with 64 samples, and 0.4 seconds left to sample with, so it's not the absolute full memory, but pretty close.

Loading it from Zip takes 56.8 seconds, this is loading into the machine just turned on, with nothng in the memory. Should be about the same in other circumstances.

58 seconds to save the program to a new partition on the zip disk.

3 minutes and 59 seconds to save the same program to floppy disk (it takes 2 disks, and i wasn't counting the time it took to put in a new disk, which took 9 seconds.)

3 minutes and 41 seconds to load same program from floppy, again not counting the time between disks.

2 minutes to format a floppy.

converting and loading an MPC 3000 Program Exported from the MPC editor took 10 minutes. The program had 64 samples and 1.7 seconds of sample time left.

I fixed my button with help from elmacaco and crazy glue! Heres how.

Heres a pic of the broken button.




Heres a pic of the fixed button.



Steps to fix a button.
1.Open the MPC 60 by unscrewing the small screws under the side panels.
2.Unscrew the green computer board thingy thats on the right side of part of the 60 that flips up.
3.Once that is done push the button out from the back using the clips that are holding the brokenbutton into the green computer thingy. The button should come out pretty easy if you gently push the clips upward.
4. Apply crazy glue in between the 2 broken parts of the button. Let it sit for about 30-45 minutes.
5. Next Apply a new coat of crazy glue around the 2 parts so it will seal the two parts together. wait the about 30 minutes then do this step again.
6. Let everything set for at least an hour to make sure it finishes drying.
7. Put the button back into its slot on the board. Gentle force will be need they don't just slide in.
8. Screw the board back onto the mpc and put the screws back that came from under the side panels.

I know you might think the button is on backwards or something but it isn't. It was just printed on wrong.

Moog Videos. Get to know the man.


http://www.sweetwater.com/feature/moog/

http://www.progressivelasvegas.com/pictures/moog_preview.mpeg

this trick most of U all ready know about i think.
But anyway this is the only trick i now only works on the MPC60
so don't bother try this on the 2000 or 3000.

Go to sample edit and choose a sound (pref. a loop sound) then reverse the sound, while the MPC is processing the data, turn the data knob as a mad man! When the MPC is done processing, reverse it back agin.
Now the sample should sound a bit dirtyier/glitchy....

I know I spell like a 3 year old kid ....