The place to share knowledge about upgrades, mods, customisations and all other cool DIY projects for MPCs and other music equipment.
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By Star One Thu Aug 21, 2014 10:11 pm
(Skip to Second Post for my Guide)

I felt personally the directions around online scared far too many people away. Also, a lot in those directions left out important details, options, the fact that there is no standard wire color code, the information is all over the place, broken links, and misinformation.

The original directions can even be helpful for reference and double checking things, if needed.

So here is the original directions from a YouTube video:

Red wire is CN 1

1 - 4 (m)
2 - 6 (m)
3 - 2 (m)
4 - 5 (m)
5 - 1(m)
6 - 3 (m) *
7 - gnd white wire
8 - 15 (vga)
9 -13 (vga)
10 - 14 (vga)
11 gnd grey wire
12 - 1 (vga red) white wire
13 gnd grey wire
14 - 2 (vga green) white wire
15 gnd grey wire
16 - 3 (vga blue) white wire

* = splice with vga #12

(m) = mouse

Wire # 6 is mon id, but splice this with VGA #12, and mouse # 3. Take gnds # 7,11,and 13 and connect together with VGA #5 gnd. (As long as you have two of the grey gnds together it will be fine). On the vga pinout 5-10 are all ground, the wire you may use might have two gnds within it. After it is identified, use the second gnd, usually vga #10, and connect with wire 15(grey gnd).

*If it dont work connect
6(mv), 3(m),12(vga), 10(vga),15(mv).
On my board pin (wire) #6 is connected thru a ground that has resistance in path. I ran into a problem when i did my upgrade, and it was ground related. If memory serves me correct, this fixed it. I know that with this upgrade, the mouse uses all six pins, which is different from standard ps/2. And it seems that it needs to be grounded.

Then posted on another forum a guy made simpler and better detailed tutorial:




name cable color

1- red signal cable (thick) - red / *pink

2-green signal cable (thick) - green / *grey
3-blue signal cable (thick) - *blue

4- id monitor 2 / ground - sheild / (sometimes black)

5- digital ground gnd - *exposed sheild (sometimes green)

6- red rtn gnd - *exposed sheild (sometimes red)

7- green return gnd - *exposed sheild (sometimes green)

8- blue return gnd - *exposed sheild (sometimes blue)

9- no pin/key/+ 5v dc - no pin (you are not using this connection)

10- ground with sheilding - black (somtimes red / *orange)

11- id bit 0 - (you are not using this connection)

12- id bit 1/data - *white

13- horizantal sync - *brown

14- vertical sync - *yellow

15- id bit/clock - *green

MOUSE CHART - (intellimouse 1.3a ps/2 only - your mouse wiring may be different)

orange - data - 1

white - +5dc - 4

yellow - clock - 5

blue - ground - 3



there are 16 connections use red wire as your starting point inside the mv8000 and go left to right counting each wire
then follow the chart above for your connections , this diagram is is for cut wires and exposed wiring

step 1 -- #1 red connect to #4 (+ 5 volts) mouse
step 2 -- #2 white connect to #6 (nothing) mouse
step 3 -- #3 white connect to #2 (nothing) mouse
step 4 -- #4 white connect to #5 (clock) mouse
step 5 -- #5 white connect to #1 (data) mouse
step 6 -- #6 white connect to #3 (ground- mouse) & #12 vga ground
step 7 -- #7 , #11 , #13 connect to vga #5 (ground)
step 8 -- #8 white connect to #15 vga (monitor id)
step 9 -- #9 white connect to #13 vga (horizontal sync)
step 10 -- #10 white connect to #14 vga (vertical sync)
step 11 -- #12 white connect to #1 vga red/pink thick wire(video)
step 12 -- #14 white connect to #2 vga green/grey thick wire(video)
step 13 -- #15 grey connect to vga #10 (sync ground)
step 14 -- #16 white connect to #3 vga blue thick wire(video)

note- 1--connect wires #7, #11,#13 together then connect them to #5 vga exposed sheild ground(you just need a ground)
connect mv #6 white to mouse #3 ground and to vga #12

note- 2--if you have monitor problems (not showing) then connect #6 white,#3 mouse,#12 vga,#10 vga,#15 (grey) and make 1 full ground connection

your are now connected ---

press shift exit on your mv8000 to activate the monitor
make sure your mouse is working first
you will see the monitor connected icon in the corner of yor mv screen



(My Guide)

Items used:

1. VGA Cable with Female End
2. PS/2 Mouse Port (I pulled from a dead PC motherboard)
3. Extra loose wire (For wiring Mouse)
4. Wire Cutters
5. Soldering Iron/Solder
6. Sticky Labeling Tape (To identify and mark wires so no getting lost)

Do NOT chop the white connector off. If you do this, you will have a mess of wires, that would be very difficult to know what number each wire is.

Take the rear plate off where the VGA goes. Take the wiring harness from the inside and feed out the back of the open bay. It does not unplug from the board inside the MV, so do not try and unplug that. You'll end up ripping it off the board.


Using the red wire as the starting point, RED wire is #1. Counting from left to right, as the other guides said, cut each wire, one by one. Each time you cut a wire, take a piece of tape or something to label the wire, and write the number of that wire on it.

When you get to the end of the harness, you will notice 3 gray wires with a small white wire coming off those. Those are each a different wire. So when counting them you might think those 3 gray wires are single. No. Those are 6 wires. So those will have two pieces of tape, one mark G and the number (for gray) and W with the number (for white) so you don't get lost.

Take the VGA cable and cut it like the guide says. Now, all VGA wires are going to be different colors. So you need to find what pin goes to what wire. Then label those wires on the VGA, the same way you labeled the wires on the harness.

To find out what wire is what, if you used what I did a VGA cable with a female end, and a male end, take a second VGA cable (with two male ends) and plug it into the female end of the cable you cut. Take a multimeter, set it to Ohm, touch one probe to Pin 1 on the male side you plugged in. Now take the other probe and touch to each wire. When you get a reading (any numbers, except 0) it will tell you what the wire connects to. Refer to this image when testing.


It should look something like this.


Now write down numbers 1 though 15 on a sheet of paper, then the color of what pin number is. This way you can take all the bits of tape of whatever you used, and clean it up. This is also good for if the tape is cheap like mine was, and can fall off and get lost. The strike though lines are ones I realized are not even used or important.


Now the mouse. With some loose wires, you should use different colors so not to get confused. I used the colors labeled on this image, so I could have a visual reference. Yes you need the brown and green wires, even though "not used"


And got this (Brown and Green wires I didn't have attached yet in this photo, sorry)


(Post 3 - Jack Plate)

This is optional. This is the way I did it. You can mount it however you want. Skip this post, to number 4 if you wish

I took a sheet of paper and traced around the hole in the back of the MV (I did not have a covering plate to work from). Then marked the holes where the screws goes.

I then took the paper, laid it on cardboard, traced, cut the cardboard out. This is my template.

I took a sheet of sheet metal, and traced the cardboard out on that, and cut the sheet metal out with some tin snips.

Then drilled the holes out using sheet metal screws of the right size to fit the holes in the back of the MV, using a power drill with a regular philips head bit. Sheet metal screws create their own thread.


Marked the size of where I needed to cut, drilled a hole. Then from that hole, using a file I shaped it.




Check the fits to see how I wanted them to sit.


Then a test fit to make sure all the wires would fit inside. Checking for clearance and that the plate is fitting right.


Once everything fits securely, and you are ready you can begin to connect the wires on your PS/2 Port and VGA Port to the wires you've fed through the VGA hole in the rear of the machine.

What I did before soldering and making this final, was connected all the wires with tape FIRST, to make sure it worked first.



There is an issue I saw a lot of where people were saying their MV kept saying "MOUSE NOT FOUND" - This is actually because of a bad ground. If you get this error, move the ground wire on the mouse to a new location. This is where I put mine.

I put the tape on there to give it more a hacked togeather look :nod: That's just what type of flavour I'm on


Once you see everything works, and you don't have a ground issue with the mouse (MV Error Message: Mouse not Found) you can start removing the tape peice by peice, so remove tape, solder, remove tape, soldier, like that.

And there you have it. Hopefully in well enough terms for non technical blondes like me. Which there is nothing wrong with that. If your not taught to walk, how can you be faulted for only crawling.

Now I've written this in January, and just found it (thankfully had half a backup copy on a text file) and wanted to finish it and post it. So I'm hoping I've left no detail out.

IF you have any extra questions, or require any assistance, feel free to PM or post :nod:

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By JUKE 179r Thu Aug 21, 2014 10:43 pm
Good **** StarOne! Cheers!
Now… the next big question is… Can you make an MV8-OP1 audio I/O expansion card for the MV??? :lol:

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By Star One Thu Aug 21, 2014 11:25 pm
JUKE 179r wrote:Good **** StarOne! Cheers!
Now… the next big question is… Can you make an MV8-OP1 audio I/O expansion card for the MV??? :lol:


I know someone who can reverse engineer those types of boards, but he would need the board to actually do it. I mean, I can't say for sure there's not some crazy stuff going on with the OP-1 so maybe he can't.. If you look up Straylight Engineering, I think his name is Tom.

But yeah that card has it's own board on the jackplate, so the components like the VGA is, aren't already on the main board itself.

It's hard to say who invented the VGA DIY originally. I think it was between two people. ClintNZ was one name, then there was another guy I don't know his name. So much respect to the two of them for figuring that out.

I'm really really glad you guys like this. My next guide I'm going to post is a 'Real' cooling system and solution to ASR-10's overheating. Involves slotting the case above the power supply area (Because heat rises, and opening the bottom is not going to do much, especially if you use it on a table) along with part numbers to a better transformer, caps for the PSU and a fan that runs off the unit (with fuse!). It's clean, looks and runs stock. More about that in another post tho.

I figured whatever I do, I need to start posting guides on how I did it, because my comprehension is so terrible, it makes easy guides I guess. Just trying to bring something to the table.
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By TYPO Fri Aug 22, 2014 6:42 pm
I think it is a very great job StarOne..You set out and achieved what was the main objective.
Who cares what the back panel looks like anyway? :-D
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By JUKE 179r Sun Aug 24, 2014 2:22 am
I can honestly say that I have done some electrical mods on my equipment that end up looking like a Frankenstein experiment. Now each time I do a project, I get better at it to make it more professional looking and safe.

Practice makes perfect.
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By Star One Sun Aug 24, 2014 3:52 am
The ASR mod, and I've still got to write up the guide for it, looks factory. Because it's visible being on the top side. Plus I'm using my mates drill press. Going to be a good one.

Just don't let one back plate tell my entire lifes work :nod: I only say that because there's been that recently.

But yes, the more you do anything the better you get. Being in a position to have more available to me where I'm living now REALLY helps.
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By konc3pt Mon Aug 25, 2014 5:15 pm
JUKE 179r wrote:Good **** StarOne! Cheers!
Now… the next big question is… Can you make an MV8-OP1 audio I/O expansion card for the MV??? :lol:


MV8OP1 isnt what it's cracked oout to be...had mine almost 2yrs now n havent used it, or the MV for that matter :-D
By willievee Tue Aug 07, 2018 6:10 pm
Hey folks - I'm new to owning an MV8000 and found this very old thread. Any way to make the pics visible again? They look crazy helpful!
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By JUKE 179r Tue Aug 07, 2018 8:39 pm
Hit up Star in a PM. She's still around.