By JVC
Wed Jun 08, 2016 4:57 pm
kurzweil k2000 LCD display replacement
I have kurzweil k2000 keyboard that collecting duct. Like other K2000, the LCD screen’s back light no longer functions, and I decided to get it replaced with LCD display with LED backlight, which supposed to last much longer than a LCD display with CCFL backlight.
K2000 uses Toshiba T6963 based 240x64 LCD display, which is very widely used (unlike MPC2000XL!), so it is just a matter of replacing the LCD display.
There is an very detailed instructions for replacing K2000’s LCD display posted on Internet already.
http://helium.deepgreen.ca/dave/K2000_Display/
The basic procedures are same, but the way I did is a simpler & easier then the instructions shown on the link above.
The LCD display replacement I purchased was exactly the same size as the original LCD display (I think most of Toshiba T6963 based LCD display is exactly the same size), so there was no need to file the enclosure.
Also, I didn’t want to modify motherboards, so I didn’t the inverter (it won’t make noise anyway, because the new LCD display unit doesn’t use the inverter.)
Tools you need
Basic soldering & de-soldering tools: if you are not comfortable with soldering and de-soldering, then do not proceed!
Soldering is not a hard part, desoldering is the hardest part of this project.
I recommend that you have good tools for desoldering.
Parts you need
T6963 based 240x64 LCD display: I used ERM24064-1 (with white text and blue background) via eBay. It was about US$30 total. There are other variations from other manufactures as well.
OK, and this is my trick to get 5VDC:
Premium Female/Male 'Extension' Jumper Wires - 20 x 6"
https://www.adafruit.com/products/1954
You need only 2 wires. This is for providing 5VDC from other pins on the board. You may be able to get the same type of wires.
Procedures
The process is the same as shown at http://helium.deepgreen.ca/dave/ site, however, you don’t need to make mod on enclosure nor mother board!
Save everything you need to keep, remove battery, disconnect power, etc.
Open the keyboard case, remove the cables from the boards (it is good idea to mark each connectors, J18, etc.) (refer to helium.deepgreen’s website)
Remove the old LCD display from the keyboard. You need the ribbon connector from the old LCD display!
Remove / desolder the yellow cable with 2 wires. Mark the polarity before removing the cable.
Now remove / desolder the ribbon connector from the old LCD display. This is the most time consuming part and hardest part. It is a parts with 20 soldering points next to each other, making it very difficult to remove it from the board. Push each pins with soldering tip may help a bit. Do not apply excessive force, or you’ll damage the connector.
Note that The new LCD display (ERM24064-1) has 22 pins instead of 20 pins. Leave pin 21 and pin 22 open.
Solder the ribbon connector to the new display in a same orientation.
Next, solder the yellow cable. There are two holes on the other side of the board. they are same as pin 21 and pin 22. (marked A and K on the board.)
Now, the new LCD display should be ready!
Now test the new display before mounting on the case:
Put back the main board without LCD display (you don’t have to use screws yet), connect all the connecters inside, except the yellow cable from the new LCD display.
Connect the new LCD display. DO NOT connect the yellow cable to where it used to be connected. (might damage the LED back light!) Here you use two jumper cable; connect two jumper cable to J18 (DEBUG), upper left pin and upper center pin. The J18 provides 5VDC.
Now turn on the K2000. LCD display should be working. If backlight is not lit, try swap the pins (it is easy to flip the pins with jumper wires!)
After you confirmed that new display is working, turn off the unit, disconnect AC plug, and start reassembling.
I have kurzweil k2000 keyboard that collecting duct. Like other K2000, the LCD screen’s back light no longer functions, and I decided to get it replaced with LCD display with LED backlight, which supposed to last much longer than a LCD display with CCFL backlight.
K2000 uses Toshiba T6963 based 240x64 LCD display, which is very widely used (unlike MPC2000XL!), so it is just a matter of replacing the LCD display.
There is an very detailed instructions for replacing K2000’s LCD display posted on Internet already.
http://helium.deepgreen.ca/dave/K2000_Display/
The basic procedures are same, but the way I did is a simpler & easier then the instructions shown on the link above.
The LCD display replacement I purchased was exactly the same size as the original LCD display (I think most of Toshiba T6963 based LCD display is exactly the same size), so there was no need to file the enclosure.
Also, I didn’t want to modify motherboards, so I didn’t the inverter (it won’t make noise anyway, because the new LCD display unit doesn’t use the inverter.)
Tools you need
Basic soldering & de-soldering tools: if you are not comfortable with soldering and de-soldering, then do not proceed!
Soldering is not a hard part, desoldering is the hardest part of this project.
I recommend that you have good tools for desoldering.
Parts you need
T6963 based 240x64 LCD display: I used ERM24064-1 (with white text and blue background) via eBay. It was about US$30 total. There are other variations from other manufactures as well.
OK, and this is my trick to get 5VDC:
Premium Female/Male 'Extension' Jumper Wires - 20 x 6"
https://www.adafruit.com/products/1954
You need only 2 wires. This is for providing 5VDC from other pins on the board. You may be able to get the same type of wires.
Procedures
The process is the same as shown at http://helium.deepgreen.ca/dave/ site, however, you don’t need to make mod on enclosure nor mother board!
Save everything you need to keep, remove battery, disconnect power, etc.
Open the keyboard case, remove the cables from the boards (it is good idea to mark each connectors, J18, etc.) (refer to helium.deepgreen’s website)
Remove the old LCD display from the keyboard. You need the ribbon connector from the old LCD display!
Remove / desolder the yellow cable with 2 wires. Mark the polarity before removing the cable.
Now remove / desolder the ribbon connector from the old LCD display. This is the most time consuming part and hardest part. It is a parts with 20 soldering points next to each other, making it very difficult to remove it from the board. Push each pins with soldering tip may help a bit. Do not apply excessive force, or you’ll damage the connector.
Note that The new LCD display (ERM24064-1) has 22 pins instead of 20 pins. Leave pin 21 and pin 22 open.
Solder the ribbon connector to the new display in a same orientation.
Next, solder the yellow cable. There are two holes on the other side of the board. they are same as pin 21 and pin 22. (marked A and K on the board.)
Now, the new LCD display should be ready!
Now test the new display before mounting on the case:
Put back the main board without LCD display (you don’t have to use screws yet), connect all the connecters inside, except the yellow cable from the new LCD display.
Connect the new LCD display. DO NOT connect the yellow cable to where it used to be connected. (might damage the LED back light!) Here you use two jumper cable; connect two jumper cable to J18 (DEBUG), upper left pin and upper center pin. The J18 provides 5VDC.
Now turn on the K2000. LCD display should be working. If backlight is not lit, try swap the pins (it is easy to flip the pins with jumper wires!)
After you confirmed that new display is working, turn off the unit, disconnect AC plug, and start reassembling.