MPC 1000 Metal Encoder Wheel upgrade help

I recently bought an metal encoder, APL part EC12E24204A2. The plastic one in mine was ****.

I finished fitting it in but this new one is completely unresponsive.

The steps I took were simple enough, I took the MPC apart, desoldered the old plastic one out and put the new one in before soldering it into place. Then reattached the wires etc and it was back how it was before with the new metal encoder. Did I miss anything?

Were there any other pieces I should have bought before fitting this in?

I did do a fairly slopy job of desoldering, is it possible this is just a problem with the soldering job?

I'm still using the original PCB board, is the upgraded one from MPC Stuff really necessary for this to work? Rather not spend the money if it ain't.

Help'd be appreciated, thanks

are you sure the part you replaced it with was a drop in replacement? Polarity, ground, resistance, voltage... all that stuff matters. Just because you got an electric part and soldered it in doesn't mean it would work.

that all said... at least in JJOS... the wheel operated in two different modes (because... two different parts)... so you had to tell it which style was installed. Can you spin it a lot and get *any* response?

NearTao wrote:are you sure the part you replaced it with was a drop in replacement? Polarity, ground, resistance, voltage... all that stuff matters. Just because you got an electric part and soldered it in doesn't mean it would work.

that all said... at least in JJOS... the wheel operated in two different modes (because... two different parts)... so you had to tell it which style was installed. Can you spin it a lot and get *any* response?

https://uk.farnell.com/alps/ec12e24204a ... dp/2065054

This was the exact part I ordered. Nah I haven't been able to get any response from it on either wheel setting no matter how far I turn it.

I'm not sure whether that part could be used as a drop in replacement but I'd been somewhat following what others had done in another thread.... viewtopic.php?f=15&t=180203

The man who seemed to have got it working there used m/f jumper wires to hook it up which I didn't have so thought I'd try without. I probably should have ordered them too but I just couldn't see how they'd be necessary. Is that likely to be my issue here? Won't be for another few weeks till I'll able to get my hands on some due the country being in lockdown.

I'm still using the original PCB board as well btw, as a final option I'll give in and order the upgraded one off of MPC stuff but I'd rather not spend the money.

Thanks for getting back man, appreciate it.

Fixin wrote:The man who seemed to have got it working there used m/f jumper wires to hook it up which I didn't have so thought I'd try without. I probably should have ordered them too but I just couldn't see how they'd be necessary. Is that likely to be my issue here? Won't be for another few weeks till I'll able to get my hands on some due the country being in lockdown.

I'm still using the original PCB board as well btw, as a final option I'll give in and order the upgraded one off of MPC stuff but I'd rather not spend the money.

Thanks for getting back man, appreciate it.

It's not a drop in replacement and you already know this from your referencing the other thread.

I have no idea why you'd think that the jumper wires would not be necessary as it is fully explained why they are necessary.

All you had to do was just follow what was mentioned in the thread and wire it up the same way.