Help w/Strength and Window

Can anyone give a description of what the new swing feature's "Window" setting actually is? Please dont just post what is in the manual, as I have already read this. The reason I ask is because when I leave the default settings as is (16th t.c., 50% swing, 100% strength, 100% window) and I record a basic 8th note hi hat pattern for EIGHT bars (manually, no note repeat), many midi notes go missing, or sometimes even bars are missing. I am assuming this is due to the "Window" setting being on 100%. I have tried this on two different MPC 5000s and have the same results each time. Any thoughts?

What do you want to hear? The manual can't be any clearer!

Anyways. Notes or bars missing has nothing to do with TC imo.

Monitor your Step Edit: Are the notes not registered? Registered, but zero velocity? Are the same notes/bars missing or just random? Does it only happen with 1/16th note value? Only at 8 bars? What time signature?

I mean give us something to work with?

Coin, chill out a bit bro. Youve been pretty cool with all my other posts. Don't come at me like some ignorant dumb beginner. If you need more information, just be cool about it and ask.

So to answer your questions, no the data is not in step edit, it only happens when "window" is set at high values and when my pattern is setup for a longer time frame like 8 bars. I'm producing hip hop, not classical, so yea 4/4 would be the one for that. And it will do it on 1/8, 1/16, and 1/32.

And no, the manual does not make it so clear. It jus says its the effected window from the time control point. Now does 100% mean 100% of a measure, or of the full 8 bars, or just 100% of the room between 16th notes? I want some examples of what the difference actually is from low to high settings with window. Because when its on hi, it seems most of the times I lose mad midi data. This is now TWO MPC5ks this happens with. I have been just turning it off and calling it a day, but I wanted to get some feed back. If its so obvious and the manual is oh so clear, how come nobody can answer the question? Your the only one who read it and tried to reply out of all the readers. So obviously its not oh so obvious as you claim.

Give it a try with the settings I mentioned (default), and you may be surprised. Its not an involved time consuming test, so its should be an easy one.

Try to read my post in a different more relaxed tone.

Probably your DAW has the same function. I use Cubase where you can visually see and set the window around a step in which TC is affected when a note is off. The same goes for the MPC.

If you experiment with the TC of the MPC(set a TC then check the step edit undo and set a different TC setting rinse and repeat) you will notice it's behaviour is not exact sience, but more experimental.

It's weird you have two units with identical problems, I still think it's not a TC issue, but something more. Return it and test the next one at the shop. Don't expect a brand new one in box, but a refurbished one.

Thanks for the info coin. Yea its almost embarrassing at this point. I look like "that guy" who just gets off on returning gear. I just want a working unit. This screen is flashing in front of me as I type (the mpc screen). Anyhow, due to the situation, I really don't even want to go in this damn store again. Even though this is their fault, they likely don't see it that way. I was tempted last time to bring headphones and test the unit at guitar center. But now I want to be in and out of there quicker than ever.

You don't own them anything! You really think they are thinking about a guy with two lemon 5000 right now? You are about them everytime you turn on that 5000.

Just focus on a good 5000 no matter how many times you have to return it and brush of your shoulders.

I remember when those Sony PSP's came out. I returned it 5 times to get one without dead pixels. I didn't care. Right now I'm waiting for a new mobile gaming system for my consoles which I returned, because of one dead pixel. I just don't give a f*ck, because it's hard earned money!

Be sure to test it somewhere else, because you do gonna look like that guy who get's off returning gear when they hook up your 5000 at the shop and no flickering screen etc. etc.

I remember when those Sony PSP's came out. I returned it 5 times to get one without dead pixels.
I did that three times before I got a good one

because it's hard earned money!
It is, and you should be given a good product or take your money elsewhere.

Be sure to test it somewhere else, because you do gonna look like that guy who get's off returning gear when they hook up your 5000 at the shop and no flickering screen etc. etc.
Always test in at least 2 completely different environments if possible.

Yea, I hear you on that. Except that was one of like 3 other issues. But one of the other screen things that I see are the same on both of these units were the varying color in the bottom right corner of the screen. On both of them they have a more purplish color in that particular corner. And it gets worse the longer the unit is on. Nobody else has seen that before either?

Yes they get purplish. Too judge how bad it is on your 5000 I need to see a pic......

jigzelmnt wrote:Yea, I hear you on that. Except that was one of like 3 other issues. But one of the other screen things that I see are the same on both of these units were the varying color in the bottom right corner of the screen. On both of them they have a more purplish color in that particular corner. And it gets worse the longer the unit is on. Nobody else has seen that before either?

I see this problem on mine also. Hope it does not die on me anytime soon.

Really appreciate the feedback on that Jayson. I originally thought that it was the "window" button being lit up, creating that extra lightish effect in the corner closest to that button. But when I quickly highlighted something else on the screen where the Window button was no longer lit up, the corner with the different color remained the same. Very WEIRD!