FIX YOUR DEAD PADS - PICS & INSTRUCTIONS INSIDE

After few hours of playing onto new pad design, I must say that Iam going back to original pad design. If I set original's pad sensitivity to 4 and Nym's pad design to 14 I got almost same feel. I dont know if its only me, but for me it isnt working.

Better control over velocity can anybody reach by adjust pad sensitivity to lesser number. Thts wht Iam thnk.

Only reason for do that is your hope to new design's durability. As I said time will show us...

Jura

that's weird, all my numbers are way far down..., like in the 5-10 range.

also, just so you know, sensitivity is like adding "x" to the velocity. it doesn't change the "Curve." that's what velocity curve is.

I think its also about style you play. I play real drumkit set (exactly same layer as original akai drumkits) and I play Kick and Snare by forefinger on right hand and at the same time I play Hat by ring finger on my right hand. And with NPD (Nym's pad design) is my ring finger too weak to hit 127. With APD it is more easy.

I give it more try, and will post results. I dont switch them back already. I will try to set up new drumkit exactly for them.

my method is vertical - 1st column is kicks, most used on the 1. 2nd is snares (top layer is rims), 3rd is hats/rides, 4th is cymbals and misc

Ok, after few hours I realized that your design is better than the original one. As you wrote: "Is more predictable", thats true. But for first tme I was pretty biased about that. Main reason was Multilayered kit build exactly for original design pad.

But another problem for me is that 2 pads are not as much sensitive as on begin. I figured out thats because I broke them accidentaly. I tryied to fix them but it didnt work.

So I decided to try produce something similar to this graphite square.

Main bassis and principle is graphite. It conducts, isnt it ? So you can find graphite everyvhere. Pencils and so on. And I need to find out what can be filler and solder. I thought about some sort of silicon sealer. But how to combine them together. And main question is in what rate ? Maybe warm up them together. Who knows? I will try to do something with that and will post results.

Jura

yo there's tons of places you can buy graphite sheets online for pretty cheap. buy one of those, cut a square and use that tape to adhere it to the rubber.

this is what i'd do if my graphite broke.

ideally there'd be graphite "stickers" you could get - with one side adhesive. sounds like you'll just have to make one.

Nym, I'm more than likely going to give the new way a shot over this weekend after spending nearly a whole work day making killer drum prg's in Blue Box hahah ...let ya know how I go, again I'll take pic's and post up
pz

sounds good man let me know how it works, i hope it is easy for you.

i've looked on the websites you've listed for sheets of carbon/graphite
but am still unsure of what direction to go. could you specifically recommend which carbon shhet you'd go with and on which website it could be ordered?

what's the matter little brother?

need someone to hold your hand?

man up, and have some self confidence. don't ask others to do what you could easily find out for yourself.

get on the phone, and call up a customer service rep @ one of these companies. Nym ain't got time to be holdin' a little baby's hand

i don't know which one, actually, because i haven't purchased any of them.

i assume the thinner the better, and as long as it's conductive you should be fine.

Lord T is right, get on the phone, they'll be able to help you MUCH more than any of us will (so far).

what's wrong with the graphite from your original pad? is it broken? if so, get yourself a sheet and tell us how it works! pioneer this sh!t!

Finaly Ive rebuild all pads to new design. Best combination was 2 layers of double sided adhessive tape and original carbon square. New design sems to have much harder feeling than old one, but Its definately better. You can have better control over dynamics, so it feels much more like real instrument. But sometimes I miss old design. Probably due to lack of experience with new design. I recomend this new design to guys who plays pads live, like I do. And I forget to send one BIG THANKS to Nym, who's father of the idea.

Jura

hey have you tried going to mode/other and adjusting the pad sensitivity? this might literally "take the edge off" the new design. play around with it!

glad it worked for you. rock on.

nym

yo I JUST TRIED THIS MAN AND IT WORK MAN MY PAD13 WAS ALMOST NON-EXISTANT MAN MUCH LOVE YALL GOOD LOOKIN OUT ILL KEEP YOU POSTED

Just finished repairing my pads. I went to Sears Hardware and bought a tube of G.E. Silicone II 100% Silicone Sealant Clear. Before applying it, I removed the original glue from the sensors carefully with a blade, and then cleaned the residue with Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol and some Q-Tips. The carbon was in excellent shape. So I was glad to find out that it was only the original glue that was the problem. Putting the rubber pad back in it's place wasn't possible without removing the entire pad assembly from the unit. That didn't take long at all and I found it much easier to repair my pads by removing them individually. Since only 3 pads needed to be repaired, I left the others alone. I'd like to know how well this Silicone will hold up, so I'd rather not fix what's not broken at this point. The next time around should be even easier than before. BTW, I decided to reglue these pads the way they were originally glued, so I can determine the durability of this silicone. I need to let the silicone cure until tomorrow before I can really put any serious pressure on those pads.