FIX YOUR DEAD PADS - PICS & INSTRUCTIONS INSIDE

kingquota wrote:what type of silicone should people be using?

how about glue? what if i want to mimic what akai did, put 4 dots of glue in the corners to avoid any glue on the sensors. what kind of glue would i use?

it's better not to use glue if you're mimicking what Akai did because it needs to be slightly flexibe to allow the graphit to flex onto the contacts underneath. if you used glue, the same thing would happen again that has already happened with the original pad design: the graphite comes off! if you don't have any silicone glue/sealer or can't get any, then glue the little square of graphite to the underside of the rubber pad.

kingquota wrote:what type of silicone should people be using?

how about glue? what if i want to mimic what akai did, put 4 dots of glue in the corners to avoid any glue on the sensors. what kind of glue would i use?

read the last post on page 5...
http://www.mpc-forums.com/viewtopic.php?t=45209&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=60&sid=434bae8f2471a17af01a65703c843cf6

im probly going to try something along the lines of contact cement, i have a good idea, give me a few days to try it and see the results.

Hi, afer few weeks with Nym's pad design Iam going to switch back to original pad design. Original pad design has better feel under my hands. I use simple tape to fix graphite where it should be. This works best for me.

Jura

Yo i got a 2000 xl and my pad 02 is **** can i walk the same route repairing it? anybody knows this?

thanx

no, unfortunately all other mpcs have a different design to the 1000 which requires all the pad sensors to be replaced in one go. they are all part of one sheet of plastic and cannot be separated.

Are you talking about wooden frames or something else?! Umm. There is a good page for wooden frames perhaps!
Also,you can find some other content on it,such as boot camp or laser cartridges or bodyguard.
You can search on the homepage try some other keywords,no ads even.these page updated every day.Because of the huge database,it perhaps not very fast,if you don't like it,take it easy.

Well if you do a search you'll see my post about my "chemical" fix for my MPC pad issues. Well months later it never really "took" So instead of ordering more chemicals with biohazard warnings on them I bought a full set of pads, and a soldering iron.

Chemical Fix = Didn't end up working well. $36
Full set of 16 pads ($7 each in bulk.) = $118.03
Cold heat soldering gun. Cool. = $20.00
Solder = found in my toolbox. $0.00
Learning to solder by fixing my MPC1k? Yup. Priceless.

If you have good hand eye (cripes you are an MPC user!)
they you can solder these pads.
Likely this is easier with a real solder iron but the cold heat one is so
cool.

I wish I had a camera so I could photo the process.
Who else bought the pads from VST?

This is a good talking about the lifter!!I learn a lot more about lifter here,I like it.
I search Yahoo for long time and find here.By the way I found some content on another website about it.Also,you can find some other on it,such as notary public or hp toner cartridges or gold coast apartments.
LOL!Good job and go on talking plz,boys

blogGreen88 wrote:This is a good talking about the lifter!!I learn a lot more about lifter here,I like it.
I search Yahoo for long time and find here.By the way I found some content on another website about it.Also,you can find some other on it,such as notary public or hp toner cartridges or gold coast apartments.
LOL!Good job and go on talking plz,boys

GO AWAY!

In order to get to know the MPC a little better, I felt like opening it. (maybe that doesn't make sense to you, but it does to me . Besides, a little cleanup can't hurt. Now I happen to have my trusty Coolpix990 nearby, so I took pictures of the whole procedure. And added some green circles where something needs to be done. Think of it as an addendum to the original post.

I wanted to inspect the carbon in my pads, so after reading the 1st post, here's what I think: once you remove the grey rubber pad from the base, there is no way to get the pad back under the black-metal-frame that used to hold it [pic 15].. So if you want to restore the pad to their factory-like state, you have to remove the whole pad board [pic 07] and use a knife to loosen the black-frame clips [pic 15] and fit the pad under it. I did just that. When the pad finally was back in place, I used pliers to tighten the frame around the pad. I covered the pliers with some black duck take to avoid damaging the black-metal-frame [last pic]. Notice the contact points of the pliers with the pad.. when you apply pressure that way, the pad will fit nicely and feel solid just like it was.

For those of you who think this is a redundant post, it's cool.. As for the others who have had issues with their MPCs but weren't sure/didn't have the courage to open their box.. here ya go! Now anyone* can do it.

Highlights:
-there's 9 screws to open MPC: 6 external + 1 flat one near Compact Flash [pic 06] + 2 underneath Compact Flash cover [pic 06].
-4 that hold the pad board + 2 cables
-2 that hold each pad + 1 cable

hope this helps at least 1 person out there. peace.
M.J.

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now, that's a proper tutorial, well done, can i get an 'S', can i get a 'T', can i get an 'I', can i get a 'C', can i get a 'K', can i get a 'Y', what do you have?? 'STICKY'!!! Ra Ra Ra. ahem, sorry, flashback to nam, when i was in the 69th airborne cheerleaders division.

double post, what a tw@

crazy timing -- i've been having unresponsive pads (1 + 2) and i finally decided to take a look at fixing this last saturday, so i followed the first post tutorial. however, after opening the mpc up, i found out that the carbon underneath the pads was actually fine -- it hadn't come off at all, still completely intact with almost no wear. turns out the problem was not the carbon, but rather than somehow the pads themselves had come loose from the board -- i think the metal clips holding the pad in place were loose. also, when i found it damn near impossible to put the pads back in place by lifting up the corners -- there just physically isn't enought space to open the frame without prying the frame up, which then loosens the frame and runs the risk of totally f**king up the pad. i was about to take the whole thing apart but didn't have the time. just checked back here this morning and lo and behold you just did it!

so many thanks -- this is exactly what i needed. and it's also an FYI that pad problems don't necessarily involve the carbon sheet breaking up or coming loose.

thanks again to monophonic! and to everyone else involved in figuring this stuff out.

thanks!!!!