monophonic wrote:In order to get to know the MPC a little better, I felt like opening it. (maybe that doesn't make sense to you, but it does to me 
. Besides, a little cleanup can't hurt. Now I happen to have my trusty Coolpix990 nearby, so I took pictures of the whole procedure. And added some green circles where something needs to be done. Think of it as an addendum to the original post.
I wanted to inspect the carbon in my pads, so after reading the 1st post, here's what I think: once you remove the grey rubber pad from the base, there is no way to get the pad back under the black-metal-frame that used to hold it [pic 15].. So if you want to restore the pad to their factory-like state, you have to remove the whole pad board [pic 07] and use a knife to loosen the black-frame clips [pic 15] and fit the pad under it. I did just that. When the pad finally was back in place, I used pliers to tighten the frame around the pad. I covered the pliers with some black duck take to avoid damaging the black-metal-frame [last pic]. Notice the contact points of the pliers with the pad.. when you apply pressure that way, the pad will fit nicely and feel solid just like it was.
For those of you who think this is a redundant post, it's cool.. As for the others who have had issues with their MPCs but weren't sure/didn't have the courage to open their box.. here ya go! Now anyone* can do it.
Highlights:
-there's 9 screws to open MPC: 6 external + 1 flat one near Compact Flash [pic 06] + 2 underneath Compact Flash cover [pic 06].
-4 that hold the pad board + 2 cables
-2 that hold each pad + 1 cable
hope this helps at least 1 person out there. peace.
M.J.
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Wow mp, these are great pics...very clear!!, I haven't been on here in a while but this very detailed, nice one...I remebered a while back someone talked about using aluminium foil and he accidentally shorted out his MPC...well I decided to give this a go [not teh shorting out bit haha] the reason I wanted to try this is after a few carbon re-makes I still kept finding the pads would slowley die on me.
OK,what I did was,once the pads were open I fixed a rectangular piece of foil exactly the size of the sensor etch to the underside of the pad, again I used the UHU glue and let dry in the sun for pretty much all day, I put it all back together again that nite and it works better than any other thing I've tried so far, EXTREMELY responsive, kinda feels like you have 0-127 velocity in a faster curve, I found performing "ghost" notes easy to do by resting my finger on the pad and lightly pressing when needed, I also found I didn't need to "pound" the pads as hard...I have only done the 2 faulty pads so far but will remove all pads and discard the carbon in favour of the foil over the weekend...I hope that helps...my next thing is to remove the "Numeric" button and swap it for the "Up" cursor as its starting to play up on me...pce
that's the soldering bit you have to do.
