Build Quality Of Pad Fix?

I'm wondering how the build quality is of the pad fix? Is it quality parts? Has anyone had any problems with The Pad Fix from mpcstuff, VST, or any other outlets? Is there much chance of getting a bad Pad Fix?

well it's called a pad fix, innit?

The pad fix should last for a long time. I'm satisified with build quality. It takes a while for the pad rubber to break in. But from what I've been told from a few forum members is that the black pad rubber is softer and more comfortable.
So even though I spent $179 + shipping through VST (which was money well spent), I'm willing to spend that extra $40 for the black pad rubber whenever I get around to it.

I LOVE how the black pads feel....

poundaproblem wrote:I LOVE how the black pads feel....

Yeah, you convinced me to buy the black pads recently. So i'm looking forward to buying them soon.
I hope Alex from needlewerk.com has the wood sides ready to order by then.

Im tellin you man, compared to the beat up pads on my blue 1000 these are WAAAY nicer. And easier on the fingers.

Are the black pads the same rubber as the 4k pads? If so, the feel would be different, not necessarily better. I'd get the black just for the color though. It looks really sharp on the modded 1k's posted here.

how long has it taken you guys to get your pad upgrades after ordering?

from someone who has been so involved with the pad fix from day -1

the akai pad fix is = quality of the 2500/5000/500. brings us (finally) to where we should be as far as far as history goes. it's our "birthright"

here's the deal:

one flaw in the pad fix - the 1 mm gap in between pad rubber and FSR.

fill it up with silicone glue on your own achievement + JJOS2 pad settings = korg padkontrol sensitivity

the vagueness is necessary
so much to learn as far as sensors, software, lordy
no shape to be explainin this right now

was wondering if anyone can answer this - do you still get that 1mm gap with the black pads sold seperatly?

Nym wrote:from someone who has been so involved with the pad fix from day -1

the akai pad fix is = quality of the 2500/5000/500. brings us (finally) to where we should be as far as far as history goes. it's our "birthright"

here's the deal:

one flaw in the pad fix - the 1 mm gap in between pad rubber and FSR.

fill it up with silicone glue on your own achievement + JJOS2 pad settings = korg padkontrol sensitivity

the vagueness is necessary
so much to learn as far as sensors, software, lordy
no shape to be explainin this right now

Do the 2500/5000/500 have the 1mm gap as well or is that specific to the pad fix?

Is it really that big of a deal to mess around with doing the little extra work like that or is it cool to install the pad fix as is and leave it be?

i like the gap. gives it a little softness and lets you know when you've given it a real hit. good for resting your fingers on the pad for a push.

i like the gap. gives it a little softness and lets you know when you've given it a real hit. good for resting your fingers on the pad for a push.

you could always rest your fingers on the pad for a push if you set your threshold higher

the gap makes it far more difficult to get repeatable low-level hits reliably since there's that crappy buffer zone in between pad and sensor.

someone in the 500 forums (completely isolated from me and my silicone advice) came up with the same trick. it is a night and day difference.

the "large" style pads of the 2500 are cast without this gap. same with the mpd series.
the 500 does have the gap.

Whenever I get the pads I'll give it a go as is, if I don't like it, I'll try out your suggestion, Nym. Thanks!

I did have a problem, due to a tiny cut in the flexible plastic film, which caused two tracks to go open circuit. This stopped pads 9,10,11,12,16 from working. It is quite easy to repair (I couldn't be bothered to send it back due to the time/effort). I used a scalpel to remove the thin layer over the copper tracks then used conductive silver paint to bridge across the cut.
The flexible plastic cables are quite vulnerable to sharp things, so if you ever damage one use this method. Be careful not to scrape off the copper track when you use the scalpel (it is very thin).

I like the feel of the new grey pads and have not messed around with the gap. Use Q link to do velocity control then you can bash them away hard for the soft bits.