They're all using "full level".
The pads are suspended in their grid by thin rubber, and there is a gap to the sensor surface, so no matter what with the pads you have to apply enough pressure to overcome that suspension force and move the pad down to make contact.
When you remove the pads, or flip them, or fill them, you no longer have an initial suspension force to overcome. That changes the dynamic from a press, or hammer, to a tap or touch or glide.
That is why they get easier to trigger after a while, because the thin suspension stretches and breaks down a little. But you still have an extra force working against your fingers.
With "full levels", as soon as it makes contact and has enough pressure to trigger the software threshold, it plays the sample at full velocity.
But without "full levels" on, the initial contact isn't 127 velocity, it's 1. That means it'll barely be audible and you need to use even more pressure.
So if Fi is the force needed to trigger the initial threshold, and Fm is the maximum threshold to hit 127, then with full levels you need to apply Fi for 127, but without it's Fi+Fm, which is much more.
For simply triggering "full level" samples, you can push the pad like a button and it's not terribly bad. But for playing it like an instrument, you have to apply multiples of that force.
The result is, if you want to tap a 127 velocity with "full levels" off, you need to bang the pad real hard. This is violent, loud, and sends shockwaves up the hand; not an ideal way to work longterm.
i think the pads are one sheet unlike the 1000 but and its a big but, theres space between the pads and the sensors underneath and u have to hit the pads pretty hard even on full velocity, if u dont hit em hard enough they just dont trigger cause the rubber doesnt press in enough to touch the sensor.
i agree with the pads. they're not very responsive. it doesn't trigger the sound if you tap it softly, which really sucks. i've actually went to GC a few days ago and compared the pads velocity response to the 1K and 2500. the 2500 had the best velocity response.
I've played around with the MPC500 and I like it, but I really hate having to stab away at those little grey pads (they seem even harder/less responsive on the MPC500 than they are on the other MPCs).
I personally had a 500 and I thought the pads were a little too tough. They loosen up after awhile, but whenever I hit the pads I had to hit them so hard it shook the batteries in the 500 and turned it off. Other users on here say they haven't had as many problems, but I took mine back and exchanged for a 1000 and but JJOS1 on it.
I chose the MPC500 over a MPC1000 because of its price and it size and weight. So far I think it looks very nice and feels very solid. The pads require a hard beating though.
i had the 500 for a couple weeks and returned it ... plus i didnt like how u have to hit the pads real hard to get them to respond.
The MPK49 has the same feel as the MPC500 or the MPC1000's new pad design. Due to the rectangular shape of these pads, they have a harder feel to them and will take more time to break in and soften up.
the 500 feels pretty solid, but lighter than the mpc1000. The pads seemed most like the black mpc1000, not the blue version. The black mpc1000 just feels different to me at least, less stiff and easier to play.
(mpk49) so far so good, but my pads are super stiff!!! i have to pound the hell out of them and the sensitivity adjustments dont seem to change anything.
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Yeah the pads suck IMO. They are the MPC 500 pads (I think).
What I really like to share with you is how I dealt with the poor pad sensitivity which seems to be a universal feature on the mpc 500. Following my suggestions is of course at your own risk... but works excellent for me, using a silicone molded swimming cap! (this is not a joke).
The point is, the rubber pads are not touching the sensor plate inside, and into the bargain they need a very firm hit to be "pressed" into it. Result: a very high threshold for triggering an event. I found a Japanese site where they change the entire rubber mat with something softer, but this I don't like because I don't trust the rubber they use and it makes the machine look less cool. So this is how I proceeded:
unscrew all screws-technically, this voids your warranty so be prepared. The only 2 screws you don't have to undo are somewhat close together on the back a littlebit more in the middle of the unit. All others: unscrew. gently pul of the slide knob on the front, then lift front pannel (left side first).
take off the grey rubber thingy with the pads. the trick is now to fill in the 12 little spaces between the rubber and the sensor plate. Here's where the swimming cap comes in: these things have thinner and thicker parts, and you need to very carefully tune each pad. Using a pair of scissors, cut adequate size pieces from the cap (about 1x0.5 cm), thickness is what counts, not size of rectangle. Place these on the sensor plate. Replace rubber mat, screw unit together again and try.
You will find that the pads now work at light touch and even the software feature of adjusting pad sensitivity curve starts to make sense. However, if the silicon you put in was to thick, the pad will trigger continuously (giving the impression of not triggering at all) or there may be cross-talk to adjacent trigger zones. If too thin, it doesn't work and the silicon piece might shift away from the center position if you cut it not exactly the size of the gap (which is what I did: better to have it cover only the central sensor zone and not interfere with the "folding" action at the rims of the original grey rubber pads) Silicon thickness needs careful adjustment for each individual pad, and the only way is unscrewing again, and repeating the procedure. Since you can only be sure of the end result when the front plate is secure in place, and adjusting thickness of one pad may influence the adjacent pads as well, it may get tedious and inolves rather a few times of unscrewing and putting back together again. Therefore it is highly recommended you set out with an excellent fitting screw-driver from the start as not to damage the unit too much, and keeping your screws in a good conditition.
One doubt remains in my mind, the plasticizers in the silicon could theoretically damage the unit; so I put a very thin paper film between the silicon pieces and the sensor plate for protection-but what it will look like inside after one year or so I don't know. Anyway, since without this modification I did not use the unit at all, for me it will be worthwile.
whether you agree with him or not I still like that math shit he dropped, we need more of that around here, ****** don't drop science anymore
