Just got the MPC 2500!

djchucknorris wrote:I got my 2500 in Feb. of 2006. My jog wheel lasted about a year or so. But, I didn't know that they were prone to malfunctioning. So, I suppose I was pretty hard on it and used it like I have used the wheels on the 2000's and 2000XL's which could take the punishment and hold up.

Your jog wheel lasted only a year?? How did you fix it? Do you have any tips on using it "properly"?

good grab...... PERSONALLY, ( if u haven't been told yet ) look into the " JJOS " feature.....
& here u are... : http://www7a.biglobe.ne.jp/~mpc1000/mpc2500/chart.htm
after ur manual reading, READ this.....^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

djchucknorris wrote:I got my 2500 in Feb. of 2006. My jog wheel lasted about a year or so. But, I didn't know that they were prone to malfunctioning. So, I suppose I was pretty hard on it and used it like I have used the wheels on the 2000's and 2000XL's which could take the punishment and hold up.

Yeah, the one on my XL still works flawlessly!

mr.pleasant wrote:good grab...... PERSONALLY, ( if u haven't been told yet ) look into the " JJOS " feature.....
& here u are... : http://www7a.biglobe.ne.jp/~mpc1000/mpc2500/chart.htm
after ur manual reading, READ this.....^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Thank's. I looked through the JJOS and I like many of the features, especially the scrolling during chopping. But I have one question. When I cop in the normal OS, zoomed in, the waveform is very sloppy. You can't really see it properly. Is this different in the JJOS?

it is....... all i can say ( cuz i jus converted over Jan 09 so iam still at my learnin curve )....
is the workflow is that much faster & easier, & u got the option of learning 3 types of " OS "
& it has that much more 2 play with.... ( thank god 4 that japanese man, he knew whut he was DOIN )
don't let no 1 tell ya different, got thee 25k ( summer of 06 )... always thought " why fix sumthing thats not broken "
but NOW its nothin wrong with fixing whuts not broken... ... good luck with ur journey...

mr.pleasant wrote:it is....... all i can say ( cuz i jus converted over Jan 09 so iam still at my learnin curve )....
is the workflow is that much faster & easier, & u got the option of learning 3 types of " OS "
& it has that much more 2 play with.... ( thank god 4 that japanese man, he knew whut he was DOIN )
don't let no 1 tell ya different, got thee 25k ( summer of 06 )... always thought " why fix sumthing thats not broken "
but NOW its nothin wrong with fixing whuts not broken... ... good luck with ur journey...

Thank's Boss, I'll defenetly convert. By the way how do you like the "build quality" of your mp?

its stable enough.... but my heart is still wit thee E-MU SP1200.... sumthing i've always wanted as a kid...
BUT i got the MPC & shall i not complain.... LIKE SUM OF THEE MASSES
Its a worthy machine & a mos def good BUY.... even better that thee " JJOS " is CONNECTED...

The Jog wheel can somehow differ from model to model. My friend has a 2500 with a shitty jog wheel, and when he went to the shop to ****, the salesman took him to the machine in the salesroom for explanation, an that unit was just fine. Perhaps the jogpart is different from model to model or somthin?

eimer wrote:The Jog wheel can somehow differ from model to model. My friend has a 2500 with a **** jog wheel, and when he went to the shop to ****, the salesman took him to the machine in the salesroom for explanation, an that unit was just fine. Perhaps the jogpart is different from model to model or somthin?

I'm guessing. I got it used, so the wheel is pretty much used. But I got a good deal. MPC 2500+128MB Ram+CD/DvD Drive+80 GB HD+Hard Case+Manual/Box/Cables for only 1550 Canadian dollard which equals out to about 1400 American $$.

I can tell the unit is in Mint Condition, because that plastic sheet is still over the screen, and the pads don'thave any grime on em.

Ruslanio wrote:Well I got the MPC used. I can tell the overall condition of it is really good, because the plastic sheet is still over the screen. I have never tried an mpc before, but this jog wheel is just garbage. When I spin it it stops at times. Do you guys have this problem?

does the jog wheel look like its hugging or rubbing or the edge of the case anywhere?

I have noticed on my 2500 that if the case is not positioned right, and even off by just a hair, the jog wheel doesnt spin as smoothly. Look on your 2500 above the wheel where it says DATA and then on the opposite side below it.
Is there a little gap between the case and the wheel where u can see the base of the wheel? and no gap at the bottom?
if so , the wheel is probably binding on the case when you spin it, since it wobbles slightly to start. it might be slightly grinding just enough to bind and stop when your rotating it.

if your not clear on what I mean , I can take pics..
anyway , if this is your problem, then the solution is just to loosen the screws on the top cover of the mpc and slightly shift the case to center the wheel better in the cutout of the top case. let me know..

TIP: try not to be rough on the wheel. I spin mine from the sides, instead of with the pointer finger indentation on the top of the wheel. It wobbles to much when you spin fast that way. I really miss my 2000 classic with the old wheel that had the outer twist surround around the wheel itself, so you could change which digit field you wanted to move.
Now you have to use shift and the Cursor. kinda wack, although with JJos you can move stupid fast through trimming a wave file, but it makes you wanna spin the wheel with the finger indent like I said. either way, GO EASY ON YOUR KNOB.. LOL

Also I dont think the wheels differ from one to another.. but possibly the rotary encoder below that the wheel pops onto. If that goes bad, its not too hard to replace it(if you can solder) if not, then replacing the board its on is an option too. But I think the issue is just with bad top case positioning.

p.s. I got my MPC2500 on craigslist too but for 850. It was in like new condition. It came with the akai cdm25 cdr/dvd drive, a 2gb CF card, the manual and plastic on the REAR of the screen where it says mpc.. lol.. not the front like yours.
Although when I went to go pick it up I saw it had a bad line on the screen. I talked the seller down another 150 bucks and grabbed it for 700.

The beauty is, the seller still had the receipt and it was purchased new from guitar center in Feb 09. So mine is still under warranty. so the screen will get fixed free and all I paid was 700! Plus I had thought about replacing the screen with a white or blue one, which is like 70 bucks. So i think I got a steal!
Added 128mb for 9 bucks off of ebay, and an 80gb hd for 28 bucks from a seller on this site, and a 8gb CF card from newegg for 26 shipped. So basically I got a fully loaded 2500 for 760!

That's a reallyyy siick deaal! By the way, I think the Jog Wheel is actually grinding up against the case. I also, just like you, find spinning it on the side is much better, instead of using that intended ring, if you know what i mean.

damn that's a killah deal triple-x.. i got mine for AU$2140 with a 40gb hd, and paid full price for akai ram, three years ago.. i thought i got a steal,[*] then a couple days after i got mine there was an alesis/numark demo and they went back to AU$2500 with no hd.. hahaha and they still at $2499 now! daylight robbin' muhfukaz!!!

actually I got a story for ya.

The day before I bought the one I have now for 700, I got one from a pawn shop locally. It was listed on ebay and I saw the place was local, So I called on it. It had a starting bid of 599. but it had a busted Qlink 3 knob.
So i went and looked at it in person. It needed a new qlink board, a new cover cause it was scratched up all nasty. and it was bone stock.. no ram, no cf card no hd, no cdm25. nothing.. So I talked em down to 545 and took it home.

I priced the qlink board at 31$, the new cover for 46$, and also a cdr/dvd drive for 80 , and I have no issue installing any of it (I do pc repair as a day job, and intricate hardware repair at that) so doing the work myself is stupid simple.
The price to bring it back to new was no issue.. bout 180 or so to have all the parts with shipping right.. well while im doing the math and searching all this I get a call from someone I hit up on craigslist the day before bout another 2500.
the one I wound up coppin for 700. So i took back the other joint that was 545(575 w/tax)

All in all I figured hell.. pay 700 and not have to mess with waiting on the parts, and doing the work since the 700 one had a really clean cover, no scratches anywhere, AND came with an actual CDM25(not a oem teac with a broken off pin)etc. Now the screen line being out was no biggie since I planned on getting a white or blue screen anyway on the cheap(like 70$). but then I find out about this Crackling noise issue(check my thread in the 2500 section).

So in the end Maybe I should have kept the broken one and fixed it after all. Now I have to send this mpc to akai, and granted it will get fixed for free, but I'll be without it for 2 weeks. Despite the fact that I got it for 7 bills, it was bought brand new in feb of this year at a guitar center for full price, and I have the RECEIPT! (compliments of the seller)
So Im thinking about calling someone high up at Akai and demanding a brand new one in the box.

Moral of the story.. there really isnt one.. LOL
700 is a great deal, but 575 plus 30 for a Qlink board is better had I kept it(only 6 bills if I didnt care about the nasty scratched up cover). But I figured once I added everything up.. I would come out better to get the other one. I even thought about going to back to buy it again and fixing it and selling it. lol

Ruslanio wrote:That's a reallyyy siick deaal! By the way, I think the Jog Wheel is actually grinding up against the case. I also, just like you, find spinning it on the side is much better, instead of using that intended ring, if you know what i mean.

just as I suspected.. Like I said.. Loosen the screws that hold the cover on.. You dont HAVE to take them out completely to do this (unless u want to).

Once the screws are loose, just push/shift/reposition the cover so that the data wheel doesn't rub on the covers wheel cutout. It can be close, but not so close that it rubs obviously. Just try to center it as best you can.
Then hold it in place and tighten one screw at a time until its held in the right position. The cover fits pretty snug, So holding it in place while u tighten the screws helps. Plus if you need more gap in the front let say, try tightening the from case screws first, then the rear ones. make sense?