Post your views and questions about the Akai MPC2500
By mowat Wed Dec 09, 2009 8:13 pm
it will probably be the rotary encoder thats the bit that holds the wheel
these can be replaced
good luck man
User avatar
By peterpiper Thu Dec 10, 2009 1:45 am
Damn. Now thats quality :roll: I got two Casio FZ1 (build in the 80s) a s950 and two s900 (build in the 80s) and a MPC2000 build somwhere beteen 97 and 2000. All of these machines went thru different hands (bought all on ebay). None of these machines has a broken encoder. Some buttons need to pressed a bit harder but everything work.

Now the 2500 was build since 2005.....

nothing more to say.......

Oh wait........5000???....

The funny thing is: With this new machines and their features its easier to chop and you dont have to press buttons and turn encoders so much as on these old machines. :lol:

This company just did everything wrong since millenium.

peace
By xibalba1875 Thu Dec 10, 2009 7:41 pm
i had a thread on how to fix it because i did mine. i posted pictures but took em down. i could rehost them if you need them.
By xibalba1875 Fri Dec 11, 2009 12:17 am
Siver wrote:yes please that would be great^...what did you end up doing to fix it? cause i opened mine up and i have no idea what could be wrong which is why i'm probably going to have to send it in to get fixed :evil:


see the circuit board that the data wheel is housed on. do all of the other buttons on that board work?
if so then it's the data wheel which cost like 10 bucks (the entire board cost about 60 or so) you need to desolder that encoder and resolder the new one. ill host the pics tonight and give an explanation of each step if i can remember them.
By xibalba1875 Fri Dec 11, 2009 2:32 pm
Tools screwdriver, tiny flathead, solder gun (make sure it is of the right heat), and most important DESOLDER BRAID this will easily help you in removing the old encoder.
Image
Image

Unscrew screws that hold cover together
Image

Pop cover off also remove the rubber pads.
Image

You will want to remove the entire board to the right
Image


To do that simply remove these connectors the ones in red you will need the tiny flat head to work the connectors out GENTLY dont force it out. you will want to wiggle it back and forth till they come out.
Image

Close up of the connectors to the top left of the board
Image

To remove the bottom connector just take your thumb on one side and pointer finger on the other side and pull out slowly till the piece that holds the strip comes out. Like so...
Image

Once youve got it all dissconnected go ahead and unscrew the board from the mpc. One of the screws (i believe it is the top right screw has a ground connected to it. just remember to screw the screw back with the ground connected. Once youve unscrewed it all it should come up and out like so
Image

Now go ahead and plug your solder iron in.

Flip the board over to the green side and located where the encoder is should look like this the ones circled in black are the ones you want to desolder
Image

So carefully desolder the encoder if you are not sure how to solder then see if you can find someone that does know how to help you.

Now resolder carefully the new encoder and reverse the steps connect the board put the case back on and you should have a working data wheel again.
User avatar
By Prah_860_ Tue Dec 15, 2009 4:13 am
Siver wrote:wow thats a bit over my head haha....looks like i'll just send it in to get fix...i appreciate you posting those pics cause now i know that it's something that i should send in to get fixed instead of trying to do it myself and most likely eff something up



:lol: :lol:

I knew you were gonna say that....cuz I would
By xibalba1875 Wed Dec 16, 2009 3:51 pm
Prah_860_ wrote:
Siver wrote:wow thats a bit over my head haha....looks like i'll just send it in to get fix...i appreciate you posting those pics cause now i know that it's something that i should send in to get fixed instead of trying to do it myself and most likely eff something up



:lol: :lol:

I knew you were gonna say that....cuz I would




:lol: yea i would say the same thing if i didnt have a soldering experience but if you do have some experience soldering i would suggest giving it a shot. since if you take it to a tech it's probably gonna run you over 100$ (possibly just gussing tho since most tech's hourly rate is between 40-60). plus fixing this isnt something that you need any real knowledge of symatics etc.