technics rebuild tutorial

950skweezyotitties wrote:previous owner was a cheap ass used a hosa cable.

whats wrong with hosa cable

if your gonna rip open a 400$ turntable the least you can do is pony up the extra 8 bucks to get a monster(or pro-co, moogami) rca cable over a hosa. the problem wiht the hosa cable used in my situation is the gauge of the wire is incredibly thin inside of the hosa cable. it has literally about 75 percent less copper inside makin for a poor connection. in the table i opened it was hanging on by one thread of copper literally.

ive attached a pic. if you cant see too good the hosa cable has about 6 thin thin pieces of copper on the main audio wire and about 10 pieces of thin copper for the ground. way less copper than a monster cable. you can use son's pics for comparison.



chill with the corny mad faces. it aint like im dissin your moms

i'm just a cheap ass

but I'll use that advice when I open up my decks

nice tut sons
i have an old SL-1650 that can use some makeup

950skweezyotitties wrote:if your gonna rip open a 400$ turntable the least you can do is pony up the extra 8 bucks to get a monster(or pro-co, moogami) rca cable over a hosa. the problem wiht the hosa cable used in my situation is the gauge of the wire is incredibly thin inside of the hosa cable. it has literally about 75 percent less copper inside makin for a poor connection. in the table i opened it was hanging on by one thread of copper literally.

but it's still copper - it's not like audio signals are 1000s of volts and need the tiniest resistance you can get - a few strands of copper will do fine. expensive cables are snake oil.

flame on

Regarding the internal ground...I don't seem to have the same pad where the short wire is first connected to. I have added a link to a pic of my tonearm.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/_F8c7Vsge5519OVxNfklVw?feat=directlink

Big ups to sonseelye!!! Your tutorial has gone more in depth in a lot of areas where I have seen other tutorials lacking...

One thing I would add for the noobs is when you take off the feet is that they twist off so that you can just unscrew them...almost like when you first get them and you are making the deck perfectly horizontal, you just keep going and they come right off...

Also when you are cleaning some of those contacts, I was taught to use isopropyl alcohol(rubbing alcohol)...has worked wonders for me in the past...

thank you

Great work so far - any updates to finish the story?

Pastor-of-Muppets wrote:but it's still copper - it's not like audio signals are 1000s of volts and need the tiniest resistance you can get - a few strands of copper will do fine. expensive cables are snake oil. flame on

I cant believe in this day and age people really think they are getting MORE by buying monster cables over hosa cables hahaha. Snake oil indeed.

Grenozh wrote:I'm pretty sure it's possible because of the 33 and 45 screw things that alter the speed, I just don't know how

looks like the fine adjust for exact 33 and 45 speed is done with a variable resistor. I think here's your answer. hook up a potentiometer/fader somewhere, you could try a dual potentiometer in place of R1 and R2?

Paul_Caruso wrote:Great work so far - any updates to finish the story?

Yo you still out there?

I am guessing that sonseelye is busy(I know it happens to me when it comes to my family)...is there anyone else out there with some knowledge that can finish this up?

Even if no one is willing to do that then maybe some of us with the know-how can touch up on some of the points already covered?

guess i gotta finish this up ay!!!

YES! you do! Been ghost man, are you okay?