Post your questions, opinions and reviews of the MPC1000. This forum is for discussion of the OFFICIAL Akai OS (2.1). If you wish to discuss the JJ OS, please use the dedicated JJ OS forum
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By wudsiba Fri Apr 23, 2010 6:11 pm
I've had to buy a few in the past, and they look just like the ones on the links you've provided. They deffinately do have the four legs. I don't know much about electronics, but they sure do look like the right ones. $4 isn't much of a loss even if they are the wrong ones. Good find right there!!
By tshizz Fri Jul 02, 2010 11:34 pm
hey wudsiba, how do i replace the tact button switch? i have an mpc 1000, and i got the part in the mail today, but once i opened up my mpc 1000 i saw the tact button switch is really in there, do i have to take out the board or something? or can i just like pry it out?
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By distortedtekno Tue Jul 06, 2010 2:16 am
If you're not good with de-soldering, then don't attempt the repair. Take the time to learn soldering, desoldering, and practice on old junk you'll never use. Best way to save a buck and get some needed experience in maintaining your own gear. Youtube has some good soldering/desoldering vidoes. But I'd also recommend searching Google for sites that'll explain that and a few things needed to be known about electronics. Good luck. Its easier than it seems. I've seen plenty of people with no experience at all assemble many DIY (Do It Yourself) kits and electronic instruments after learning the bare essentials. 8)
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By Ocular Sun Sep 26, 2010 5:24 am
Balls wrote:can inform you that they have to be 6x6mm and 5mm tall, 4 legs.


I was wondering about that, thanks. I'm going to get a can of deoxit and hopefully that will work. If not then I'll be ordering some of these.
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By Balls Sun Sep 26, 2010 10:34 am
actually the ones i got had 5 legs, the 5th one was meant to keep it more securily in place. I just broke it off. Dont forget to get hold of a desolder-sucker (whatever theyre called), and of course a soldering iron + solder-tin.

And be careful with the ribbon-cables when you detach/attach them.
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By Coz Sun Sep 26, 2010 1:04 pm
Does anyone know if replacing the tact switches on a 2500 is any easier than the 1000? The layout of the boards etc?

I haven't soldered anything for over 10 years, but I think buying an iron would be wise if this is a common problem.
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By Ocular Mon Sep 27, 2010 1:47 am
Coz wrote:Does anyone know if replacing the tact switches on a 2500 is any easier than the 1000? The layout of the boards etc?


Not sure personally. If no one here can answer that then try taking a look at the 2500 and 1000 service manuals.

I found these on the Mouser website:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Components/PTS645TL50-LFS/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsgGjVA3toVBBpDTNTTW0j3GrWi%2frscAsc%3d

Do these switches meet the voltage/ amperage specs?
Last edited by Ocular on Wed Oct 27, 2010 5:38 am, edited 1 time in total.
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By Al Max Sat Oct 23, 2010 12:36 pm
I was having problems with tact switches (down and right cursor, shift and main). Tried deoxit first but it didn't work.

Went to a local electronic store here in Madrid and ask for 6x6x5mm tact switches. They had it. Got twenty units for 0,17€ (0,24$ aprox.) each. I also got a solder-sucker (3€) and even I had soldering basic knowledge, I studied soldering and desoldering skills visiting some forums about electronics.

I replaced broken switches for new ones and they work perfectly. The hardest step was removing the board (I think it should be as difficult as 1000).

Don't buy it at mpcstuff they're extremely expensive (8$ each). These tact switches are standard stuff not MPC specific. You can find it at this page:

http://es.rs-online.com/web/search/sear ... &R=3786432. (it's the type C).

It's the spanish page but they ship worlwide. For US users visit http://www.alliedelec.com/.

It's easier than it seems. If you need help ask for advice.

Oh, and 50 mAmps is right.

Good luck.
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By Ocular Wed Oct 27, 2010 5:38 am
Thanks for the amperage clarification, Al Max. I finally got around to spraying some deoxit on my switches today and everything works great now. I bought the radio shack brand which costs a little less than the stuff that sells at guitar center and it did the trick.
I also compared the 2500 and 1000 service manuals and it looks like both mpcs have the same board layout on the top and shouldn't be too difficult to get at.

EDIT: The deoxit worked for a little while now but now the switches are back to being unresponsive.
By biggs Fri Mar 18, 2011 5:13 pm
Ocular wrote:
Coz wrote:Does anyone know if replacing the tact switches on a 2500 is any easier than the 1000? The layout of the boards etc?


Not sure personally. If no one here can answer that then try taking a look at the 2500 and 1000 service manuals.

I found these on the Mouser website:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Components/PTS645TL50-LFS/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsgGjVA3toVBBpDTNTTW0j3GrWi%2frscAsc%3d

Do these switches meet the voltage/ amperage specs?



Hey were these switches ok to use? I noticed you used a different one to replace yours and I am trying to replace my switches and was wondering if these switches you posted first were good.