Post your questions, opinions and reviews of the MPC1000. This forum is for discussion of the OFFICIAL Akai OS (2.1). If you wish to discuss the JJ OS, please use the dedicated JJ OS forum
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By Prah_860_ Mon Jan 17, 2011 1:09 am
So u asking ppl to lie to u?
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By Prah_860_ Mon Jan 17, 2011 1:48 am
I'm not a pro with circuits.....sorry bro...
By 3lusive Mon Jan 17, 2011 1:51 am
Prah_860_ wrote:I'm not a pro with circuits.....sorry bro...



Me neither, I hope I'm even using the right terms...I just wana make music god damnit. Will someone please tell me if there's still life in this piece of technology.
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By Ocular Mon Jan 17, 2011 3:27 am
**** that, you'll be fine. In the other thread in the 1000 forum I told you to clean up that solder and do a continuity check with an electricians multimeter. Clean the the area around the contact point with some deoxit as well. If the continuity test passes you're all set. If the continuity test fails you can do 1 of two things:

1. Bridge the fried contact point to the trace with some solder. This is the quick and dirty way to do it and may or may not last very long. This way is not recommended.
*EDIT: Poundaproblem vouches for this solution. He is not known to give garbage advice so by all means try this first*

2. Bypass the trace completely with point-to-point wiring. This will directly connect the termination pin on the tact switch to the next contact point in the circuit.
Take a piece of thin gauge wire (22 or 24 gauge should work) and strip each end just enough so you can get some solder on the bare wire. Solder one end of the wire to the fried contact point so that it connects to the termination pin on the tact switch. Next, follow the trace connected to the fried contact all the way to the next contact. This is where you want to solder the other end of the wire so that it connects to the termination pin of the next component. Make sure no solder or bare wire is touching any other traces and do another continuity check on your point-to-point wiring job to make sure it passes.

Or you can just fix it with money by paying a tech to do what I described in option 2 or buy a new board if they're available.
Either way you'll be fine. Don't panic. :wink:
Last edited by Ocular on Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:53 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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By inflict3 Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:11 am
be very careful with these boards. the contacts could pull out. if this happens. {it happened to me when i did some leds} all you have to do is trace the line back to the next solder point on that path, use a lil piece of wire from somewhere. and solder it from the leg of the switch with to that next point down the line
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By inflict3 Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:13 am
ps.. dont **** up. these boards have been outta stock for like 7months now. if meed be practice on something else for a few hours before you work on the mp
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By distortedtekno Mon Jan 17, 2011 12:26 pm
Ocular wrote:**** that, you'll be fine. In the other thread in the 1000 forum I told you to clean up that solder and do a continuity check with an electricians multimeter. Clean the the area around the contact point with some deoxit as well. If the continuity test passes you're all set. If the continuity test fails you can do 1 of two things:

1. Bridge the fried contact point to the trace with some solder. This is the quick and dirty way to do it and may or may not last very long. This way is not recommended.

2. Bypass the trace completely with point-to-point wiring. This will directly connect the termination pin on the tact switch to the next contact point in the circuit.
Take a piece of thin gauge wire (22 or 24 gauge should work) and strip each end just enough so you can get some solder on the bare wire. Solder one end of the wire to the fried contact point so that it connects to the termination pin on the tact switch. Next, follow the trace connected to the fried contact all the way to the next contact. This is where you want to solder the other end of the wire so that it connects to the termination pin of the next component. Make sure no solder or bare wire is touching any other traces and do another continuity check on your point-to-point wiring job to make sure it passes.

Or you can just fix it with money by paying a tech to do what I described in option 2 or buy a new board if they're available.
Either way you'll be fine. Don't panic. :wink:

cosign!
By 3lusive Mon Jan 17, 2011 6:37 pm
Thanks for all the confidence boosters fella's. The CORRECT tact switches are on the way and my **** right side PCB is back ordered from MPCshits.com

Assuming the tact switch still isnt registered when I put it in regularly, I'll solder wire to / from the corresponding point on the board and cross mah damn fingers.

I WANA MAKE MUSIC :angry: :angry: :angry:
By MPCHunter Thu Jan 20, 2011 5:20 pm
Before you work on your MPC, you should practice your soldering on something that you won't mind ruining. Otherwise you risk on damaging the MPC even more.

Find an old video game cartridge, walkman, or battery powered electronics device and practice removing and replacing some parts until you get a feel for the procedure.

Or it may save you a headache if you find someone local to do the work for you.