Just bought a blue 4k for £195!!!

ArKyve-31 wrote:If I get the chance I'll pop the top on mine and take pics so you can kinda have a map of how it should look

That's good of you mate, but I've already managed to find about 20 decent internal pics while I was searching yesterday. I'm still in the dark about where the chunky ribbon cable connects that was disconnected and curled up in the box though...

What I have learnt is people often piss off without updating their threads on how they eventually got the machine fixed!

scoobylol wrote:Ah yeh Coz as Ark says if you need any pics just PM me mate, I've got a 1000 black but the inside bar the pads should be the same I'd have thought.

The 4k is a very different beast internally... If you emptied the insides you could probably hide 2 1k's with ease!

The 2500's days are numbered if I can breath new life back into this thing.

Sh*t I've been reading this as blue 1K the entire time. Oh no this is just like being back in school...

"really needs to concentrate more in class. He's a bright boy but he's distracting himself and others talking too much and not paying attention".

Now I've realised what you've done this may qualify for bargain purchase of the century.

Yeah, I wouldn't be this excited if I'd picked up a 1k for £195!

It was obvious the seller didn't have a clue what he was talking about, and his 'communication' was abysmal, which I think put people off bidding for it. I'll be gutted if I have to end up selling it on without actually getting it sorted.

I should know a bit more this time tomorrow.

The 4K is a tank, good luck man. Download the service manual PDF it will tell you everything u need 2 know

Cheers mate.

I've got the service manual open in a tab in Safari, so I'll keep ploughing through it.

scoobylol wrote:Sh*t I've been reading this as blue 1K the entire time.

coz if you don't put that thing in the shop man.... at least they'll tell you whats wrong and how much it will cost to fix it. plus keep the 2500 or get a nice hardware sampler.

I only found out today what the deal was with getting it sent out for repair. Two companies have got back to me, so it's just a case of deciding who to go with.

The master plan (all being well) is to flip the 2500 and put the cash towards a Tempest or Octatrack. Then at some point get hold of the ADAT board for the 4k.

Please FFS don't let either of those repair companies be Cimple solutions

Rip off merchants and Poor service to say the least!

And this is from the company who claim to have been Akai reccomended service engineers!

Moz wrote:Please FFS don't let either of those repair companies be Cimple solutions

I've settled on them but it's sitting here all boxed up and ready to go, so it's not too late to change my mind.

What happened?

Just a little update...

A repair company in Scotland have got back to me with the possible problem.



Hi there,

Sounds like it's the mainboard which tends to make it too expensive when you factor in parts/labour/shipping. You can source parts via the following link - http://www.mpcstuff.com/mpc4000stuff.html

This is the board that is likely to need replaced but it's not a guaranteed fix - http://www.mpcstuff.com/1al4016a502b.html

A lot of these repairs become a needle in a haystack situation where you end up replacing part after part but never tracking down the fault, so we tend to avoid them because of the time involved. You may find MPC Stuff handy in tracking it down but as i said, it could become a total money pit.

Hope some of this helps!

Brian



It doesn't sound too promising.

^^ Isn't that the part I suggested in PM? I really think its the problem, is the only thing that could explain the specific problems you have encountered, considiring it was fully turned on when you showed upt to buy but the buttons didn't work. Are you sure you went disconnected and reconnected every cable? I know it was mentioned but wasn't sure if you did or not.

yeah, also.. while doing that since you will have it open.. one thing that may be nice to know and it's easy to spot.. check for any popped caps. (capacitors mushroom or pop up sometimes when they get old.. plus they could start leaking a bit.)

look on google images for a popped capacitor if you need to know what one looks like... they will be easy to spot.

another thing is, check for cracked traces on the motherboard. Sure, that might be a bit more tedious to do but you could quickly scan over it just to see if you see any.

the reason I say this, is because if any of those things are there... it may be cheap to have someone quickly fix it if you cant solder yourself.

ArKyve-31 wrote:^^ Isn't that the part I suggested in PM? I really think its the problem, is the only thing that could explain the specific problems you have encountered, considiring it was fully turned on when you showed upt to buy but the buttons didn't work. Are you sure you went disconnected and reconnected every cable? I know it was mentioned but wasn't sure if you did or not.

You mentioned the i/o board if that's what the PCB ADDA Assembly is?

I disconnected some of the connections and made sure they were reattached correctly, but my main issue was with cables that were removed completely. Someone has obviously been messing around inside this machine before me, so I'm pissing in the wind with it really. I'll never be an electronics technician unfortunately.

I can get it collected from my house for £15 and have it fully checked out for free by a trained professional, so that seems like the logical way to go. The only problem is I'm at the back of a 3 month waiting list for the place I'd like to send it. There's no rush either way.