Any tips when replacing the cursor button switches?

I need to fix the cursor buttons. What do I need, the switches underneath? Is it a hard process?

no, it's not hard. if you can solder it'll take you 30 minutes...25 of which is just getting to the switches.

my advice: while you've got the pcb exposed, replace as many switches as you can. there are three different switches, btw.

- jim

Thanks, I haven't used a solder gun since I was kid. I might have to take this one in.
What are the three different switches?

search this forum for tact or tactile switch. or email me: [email protected]

if you're in/near nyc or don't mind shipping i'll do the work for you.

- jim

Look for sealed tact switches. It keeps the dust and moisture out.
And don't buy the shitty cheap quality "bag of 100" tact switches for $5 off eBay. Unless you really want to change out you switches twice due to failure.

I have to do the same thing, but what im wondering about is the two cables that connect the operation pcb with the other pcb's. Do these cables disconnect from the top, or do you have to disconnect them from the bottom & pull them thru the holes?

Jim, your cut from a different cloth. Thanks for the offer. In going to get some sealed switches. Thanks for the tip, Juke

I have to do the same thing, but what im wondering about is the two cables that connect the operation pcb with the other pcb's. Do these cables disconnect from the top, or do you have to disconnect them from the bottom & pull them thru the holes?

anybody?

tarbaby wrote:

I have to do the same thing, but what im wondering about is the two cables that connect the operation pcb with the other pcb's. Do these cables disconnect from the top, or do you have to disconnect them from the bottom & pull them thru the holes?

anybody?

What MPC?

4000...

Nothing difficult, just take your time and keep concentrated

You have 2 kinds of tact switches,

- the big red ones under the "big" buttons (like play/stop/rec, the ones around the pads area ...)
-> they last quite long and rarely have to replace them. They mostly die to "exceptionnal physical impacts" lol


- the smaller black ones. It seems Akai chose cheaper models (it's even worst on 1k, 2k5 ...)

DON'T use a solder gun, it is way too big for a precise job.

The trickest part is to desolder PROPERLY the old ones, without messing everything and burning any PCBs tracks (I have seen so many apprentice DIYers burning tracks ...)

Use a soldering iron with a thin tip, ok for electronic jobs and some desoldering braid.

All 4k switches are on 1 huge Operation PCB, so once removed change as much as you can !

PS: Be careful to work on a "non-static" table/material, it can damage EPROMS