Bug reports & end-user support for Akai's MPC Software 'controllers' including the new MPC Studio 2, the MPC Touch, MPC Renaissance & original MPC Studio and MPC StudioB lack.
By moyphee Wed Jun 12, 2013 9:42 pm
No more Vintage Mode or 3000 circuitry for you! :lol:

Once he gets it sorted out the same dudes that give him a hard now will be asking Numark to mass produce it. :nod:
Last edited by moyphee on Wed Jun 12, 2013 9:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
By mQueue Wed Jun 12, 2013 9:43 pm
elogical4now wrote:Damn shame, what he did to that REN.


In retrospect I kind of feel the same way but can't replace how much I've learned about it through dissecting it
By mQueue Fri Jun 14, 2013 1:21 am
Well...it is suprising given what this thing has been through...but it's running....USB powered MPC Renaissance.

Though the limits of practicality have been pushed here and I definitely miss the near zero latency of the MPC sound card.... This is great info for anyone looking to do some DIY work with the Renaissance main board.

Any questions feel free to hit me up.

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How to: Only one part is required...a 5v to 3.3v converter. I found this one that I'm testing now (a couple other ones couldn't put out enough juice for all the LED's) http://www.ebay.com/itm/380653433594?ss ... 1439.l2649

There are 2 wire harnesses coming off of the Renaissance main PCB, one for power and the other for USB.

The first harness (Red, Green, White, Black, Black) contains 4 lines and a shield wire; as does a USB cable. Connect a USB cable to this harness matching the wires.
+5v
Ground,
Data+
Data-
Shield


The second harness (all Black) contains 5 lines:
+3.3v
+3.3v
Ground
Ground
+5v

First connect the 2 Ground lines to the Ground line on the USB Cable, then connect the +5v line to the +5v on the USB cable.

Now wire the 5v-3.3v converter. It has a one pair or power and ground for input and one pair for output. Wire the +5v Input line on the converter to the +5v line on USB cable. Wire the 3.3v Output line on the converter to the two 3.3v lines. Connect both the input and output Grounds to the Ground line on the USB cable.

Happy hunting!
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By Airyck Fri Jun 14, 2013 2:10 am
Any chance you got a part # off the LCD? I'm looking to possibly swap it out at some point and want to try to source some different colored LCDs that I could swap in. With a part number I could get a data sheet and start hunting.
By mQueue Fri Jun 14, 2013 3:21 am
the actual LCD is soldered to a breakout board... here's some pics of the Pin-outs listed on the back.

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By pk1 Fri Jun 14, 2013 2:08 pm
looks like you used a sawsall on the Q link board holmes! geez. next time dissect a thousand dollar bill. id be interested in seeing that tore to s/h/i/t too :hmmm:
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By Airyck Fri Jun 14, 2013 3:25 pm
mQueue wrote:the actual LCD is soldered to a breakout board... here's some pics of the Pin-outs listed on the back.

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Thanks! I can probably get it figured out with this :mrgreen:
By mQueue Sat Jun 15, 2013 12:13 am
pk1 wrote:looks like you used a sawsall on the Q link board holmes! geez. next time dissect a thousand dollar bill. id be interested in seeing that tore to s/h/i/t too :hmmm:


lol cutting the q link out of the plastic frame was a little too ambitious...
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By Airyck Sat Jun 15, 2013 4:06 am
mQueue wrote:
pk1 wrote:looks like you used a sawsall on the Q link board holmes! geez. next time dissect a thousand dollar bill. id be interested in seeing that tore to s/h/i/t too :hmmm:


lol cutting the q link out of the plastic frame was a little too ambitious...


You could always try a clear or translucent custom square piece of plastic as a replacement, a sort of permanent window into the guts of the Ren. Just holes for the pots and the LEDs would shine through. Much simpler than trying to make all of the LED holes.