MPC2000 case not sitting well.

I opened up my MPC to inspect why the case might not be in properly, and to my surprise, there was a screw missing around the middle, in the bottom half of the faceplate. When I hit around pad 1 - 8, all is well, but when I hit pads 12 to 16, I hear the faceplate making a weird sound. Sort of like reverb or something lol.

Also, the 2 and 3 button need to be pressed extra hard to respond. 3 feels a bit wobbly. Would getting two replacements fix this?


Oh also the F5.

Add the missing screw to secure the faceplate. easy fix.
If you are good with desoldering/soldering, you can buy and install good quality OMRON 6mm x 6mm x 5mm tact switches part number 653-B3W1022 from Mousers.com.

JUKE 179r wrote:Add the missing screw to secure the faceplate. easy fix.
If you are good with desoldering/soldering, you can buy and install good quality OMRON 6mm x 6mm x 5mm tact switches part number 653-B3W1022 from Mousers.com.

I'm not good with soldering or desoldering. I also don't think I have a screw that fits. If I don't, is there one I can take out of somewhere else that isn't as crucial to the whole thing...? On the inside of the front panel, there's some brown copper shit being held in place with one of those screws. It seems as if it'd stay in that place quite well too if I removed one from there... What do you suggest?

Edit: I think I might know someone who is good with soldering? It's not all the same when it comes to soldering, right lol? It won't take a knowledge of the specific MPC for him to be able to fix that, would it?

Leave those copper tabs in place. That is to ground the MPC cover to the frame.
it's been a while since I tore down a MPC2000 but I think you can probably try a screw from the bottom panel.
Soldering is soldering. If they can solder in car stereo equipment (like how I learned), they can solder in a few tact switches onto a MPC board.

JUKE 179r wrote:Leave those copper tabs in place. That is to ground the MPC cover to the frame.
it's been a while since I tore down a MPC2000 but I think you can probably try a screw from the bottom panel.
Soldering is soldering. If they can solder in car stereo equipment (like how I learned), they can solder in a few tact switches onto a MPC board.

I see. Thanks. I looked up some videos of replacing tact switches on an MPC2000 and it seemed easy enough. I think I will try doing it myself. I read that you can somehow **** up the circuit board itself? How can I watch out for that?

If you are MPC-2000 classic user (or any stand alone MPC users, MPC-4000 or older), you should be able to do very basic servicing. Soldering skill comes very, very handy.

I've lost count how many times I opened my 2000XL. (2000 classic requires even more work to open) Soon, I have to replace that rotary encoder again! I think I replaced all of the tact switches on my XL, expect the large ones (they are very durable, still original parts on my XL.)
De-soldering is harder than soldering. Rough de-soldering job can damage trace on PCB board.
I'd recommend to practice soldering and de-soldering on junk PCB boards, until you get comfortable.

JVC wrote:If you are MPC-2000 classic user (or any stand alone MPC users, MPC-4000 or older), you should be able to do very basic servicing. Soldering skill comes very, very handy.

I've lost count how many times I opened my 2000XL. (2000 classic requires even more work to open) Soon, I have to replace that rotary encoder again! I think I replaced all of the tact switches on my XL, expect the large ones (they are very durable, still original parts on my XL.)
De-soldering is harder than soldering. Rough de-soldering job can damage trace on PCB board.
I'd recommend to practice soldering and de-soldering on junk PCB boards, until you get comfortable.

So true.
I've got an Aoyue 2702A+ solder/desolder/hot air rework station that is great for this kind of work on MPC boards.