MPC (X) XLR Combination Jack Part and Repair

So I was asking for the correct xlr combi jack replacement part earlier because a 6.3mm jack stuck in the socket and I could only get it out with some force. But now the Jack would not lock into place anymore and at some point I could not even get it in all the way. Thinking that I needed to replace the socket I wrote Akai. But since Akai is not able to provide the part info I started digging myself. And I managed to repair the XLR combi jack even without soldering This is what I came up with and the process:

Replacement Part needed: Neutrik NCJ10FI-H-0 (*) (3 pole XLR female receptacle with 1/4" switching stereo jack and switching ground contact, horizontal PCB mount, retention spring). The NCJ10FI-H (no -0) should work as well. The difference is that the -0 (found in the MPC) does not have the XLR locking mechanism in the front.

Unfortunately this specific part was not in stock anywhere near my home and ordering from mouser or anything would cost me with 20 bucks for shipping for a part that is 2 bucks really

So I opened up the MPC and checked the socket more closely. Turns out just the "nose" that holds the 6.3mm jack in place was broken off and the XLR socket is built in two parts.

So here are some pictures of the repair. I hope it helps somebody at some point

- The XLR Combi jacks on their board. You can clearly see that this part has a back cap


- The back cap off with the broken off "nose" that holds the jack in place. To get the cap off you should use some needle nose tweezers and slide the unter the the locking mechanism on the sides and push ever so slightly so that the the cap comes off but the locking mechanism does not break ... at least for the new cap. For the old cap I would not mind


- Contacts are still in tact so replacing the cap should be sufficient


- I only got hands on a NCJ6FI but thanks to standards the back caps are exactly the same. This means: If you have the same problem just get any NCJ XLR combi jack and use the back cap. It should fit without any problems. Just be careful while prying the caps off not to break the locking mechanisms.
Also as you can see there is a big hole in the top right behind the "nose". So if a 6.3mm jack is stuck and can't be pulled out you can lightly push in the "nose" through there and get the jack out without destroying the thing...again something learned


- This one shows the pins on the underside. It's 4 rows with (from top to bottom) a plastic pin and then two, three, three, three contact pins


(*)https://www.neutrik.us/en-us/product/ncj10fi-h-0

That's all folks...hope it helps somebody to repair their MPC

Talking about repair: New AKAI products are nothing but a plasic box.
- The flimsy Rec/OverDub/Stop/Play key broke inside just abou 6 month after purchase (a bit of glue and sticky tape didi the job - looks awful but works)
- The SD card slot broke, after it "ate" a card after a year. As the USB is doing now the job - I covered it up with gaffer tape
Now, I could have got in contact for replacement - but it would take time to get it repaired - prob too much time. You'll not get a interrim replacement during the time...
Sounds like I am a lucky guy, as my jacks are still working .

Discussions about which one should buy - waiting for the next or buying the current are insane - as it is getting worse since AKAI was sold.... get an old one - robust like a rock....

Re-think whatever you purchase!

EDIT: Why AKAI is not selling spare parts is a business decission I guess - "broke, don't worry buy a new one"
NIN e.g., they don't bother about breaking their "Maschine" - they are wealthy enough to buy a stack of them - I am not earning enough with my music to buy a stack of MPCXs.....

Yeah. It's like that for most gear though (unfortunately). But I wouldn't blame the breaking XLR on Akai. I don't know of any XLR Combo jack that does not utilise plastic as a lock in mechanism for the 6.3mm jack nowadays. And the music biz has long become a consumer market where everyone is enabled to make music if they like to which is great. But unfortunately that also means that prices must be low. But yet there should be some middle ground between low prices and quality. And raising the quality of a button just ever so slightly that it won't fall off should not overly raise costs (I hope but I am not in product development)

The only thing I really blame on Akai here is why the F do they not have/share parts lists for replacement parts? They MUST have lists. And if they don't want to share then because of "secrets", then just share the things everybody can easily see ... like jacks and sockets. They've told me to ask one of the stores selling the MPC because "they know"...asked Thomann. Reply: "Please send detailed pictures of the broken part and also a part number so we know what to replace" ....

But that's exactly why I detailed the part and how to repair here because it is the only way we have as boons, um I mean users.

...sure, consumer market where everyone is enabled to make music... this is absolutely right - and good.
And I was in product development for years (cars that was) and "cheap" is the new "solid"... you are right too.
But imagine, a small car costs about 15K - the MPCX 2K - tell me, what is so difficult to put reliable stuff in there - and have a working Quality Control and replacement parts...
It is a buy-and-throughaway mentality....silly.
The MPCX is using LINUX as base - you could make it whatever you like (from AKAI side I mean). They could sell different software for the same hardware. Just as it pleases the customer - type of modular SW. Me e.g., I do not need the internal synth. I would be happy without it. It is nothing but a dedicated computer. With the right quality of hardware, it could last for decades - if spare parts are available.
This would be a "game changer"
For a little more of the MPCX (at the time I bought it), I bought the PolyBrute. What a difference in quality..... I know they are not comparable, but.....

You are absolutely right. In general the MPC line and even the force have so many capabilities in software alone. I am a full-time senior SW dev and when I see the way they (don’t) handle bugs or how new bugs pop up through fixing others and generally how unfinished features seem I can instantly point my finger at things. Maybe I am wrong but after 25 years as software dev mostly being called to help companies get their development and priorities straightened I can say that in 99% of all companies developing SW that is bad it’s the exact same combination of problems that make their sw so bad. And companies with good sw usually have those problems figured out. And for the most part the biggest problem is not skills or motivation but the way a SW team is able to act and whether they control the SW or if some business idiot controls it. Sure at some point motivation and skills fade but initially is about controlling my own shit vs some business idiot controlling my shit because of some ego and short-term money. Things are way more complicated but it all starts with control and honesty.

mrmarbury wrote:So here are some pictures of the repair. I hope it helps somebody at some point

I just wanted to give the OP props for posting these photos and their experience with this issue. My Force also has a janky combo-jack, and I was weary of taking it apart to have a look. What you describe is almost the same to the letter, so I'd wager I'd find a similar thing. Might order a replacement cap and give it a go - doesn't look to difficult to disassemble.

No problem. You are welcome. Repairability first . I repair most of my gear. 90% of the cases it’s just a faulty capacitor to replace when things stop to work. Which is like a 50c part to rescue a 1k device. So learning to use a multimeter, to solder and also desolder is important imho.

Regarding the XLR watch out that you can’t just order a back cap. You have to order the whole jack and just use the cap. I ordered a Neutric NCJ6FI-H-0 (H for horizontal and V for vertical mount) because I looked wrong meeh and was lucky it’s just the end cap that needed to be replaced.

I always have some nightmares because some companies actively prevent repairs by putting some lacquer on their solder joints that makes desoldering very hard and you just destroy the PCB if you don’t know what you are doing. Anyway.

But as I‘ve written all XLR combo jacks should feature the same cap. If unsure the 6 fits but if you can get the 10 and you could replace the whole thing If needed. Happy to hear about progress

I don't think anything wrong with mpc build quality.. even stuff that is "built like a tank" like the isla s2400, or octatrack, etc., are just metal boxes instead of plastic, but they all use the same connectors and stuff.. seems you are blaming Akai for the quality of all connectors going down, but that is a industry wide thing.. even super expensive stuff now is no guarantee that it is built any better.

kja wrote:seems you are blaming Akai for the quality of all connectors going down, but that is a industry wide thing

Wait. You mean me? I specifically don’t blame them for the jack. Just showing how to replace it and what part ist needed because (but I do blame them for that) they won’t share which part is needed

Lesson: dont drop your cables on the floor or bang them on things.