MPC 60 FAQ / MPC 60 BIBLE / Please Contribute

For the US it's TSC 125V 3.15A and two TSC 125V 1 A.

I think you can use 250V versions too, it's the amps that blows them. You want fast blow fuses.

If you use floppies you need to back them up to prevent data loss. The best program for XP is OmniFlop it works flawlessly and it's FREE (at the moment). It's functionality goes well beyond the MPC60 and the developer's goal is to eventually be able to read and write all possible formats. It's still in development so if you discover a new format email Jason and he will add it to the program and give you credit for the discovery. For kicks test an Emax, SP, or EPS disk... Here is the link http://www.shlock.co.uk/Utils/OmniFlop/OmniFlop.htm

So you need a new backlight but you don't wanna drop $50 to buy a replacement... Well, you can allways just make your own like I did. I bought a green electroluminecent panel for $15 and a pack of Scotch photo laminating sheets from wal-mart for $2.50. First I cut the panel to size, then I attached the connectors, and then I laminated it. After that I trimmed the lamination to fit behind the LCD. Before I soldered it I connected the leads to a 9v inverter that came with the EL panel to make sure it looked good. It did, so I soldered and screwed everything back together and was done. Since I had some extra material I went ahead and made another one, so for about $9 per backlight it's a pretty good deal compared to the well known replacement sellers. Good luck.

Where do you get that and PICS!!!!

Dirty 1200 wrote:this trick most of U all ready know about i think.
But anyway this is the only trick i now only works on the MPC60
so don't bother try this on the 2000 or 3000.

Go to sample edit and choose a sound (pref. a loop sound) then reverse the sound, while the MPC is processing the data, turn the data knob as a mad man! When the MPC is done processing, reverse it back agin.
Now the sample should sound a bit dirtyier/glitchy....

I know I spell like a 3 year old kid ....

i didn't notice any difference. what OS are you running?

I noticed a weird problem in my 60 the other day when using it to control external modules, pad 13 when pressed hard would retrigger like a roll of some sort but also occasionally trigger adjacent pads if I hit it right. I just had to press hard on it (like triggering aftertouch on keys) and it would just bug the fuk out. I wasn't so worried about it but procrastinating something else I went in and decided to pull out the pad assembly for a cleaning, it's been a few years since I did it thoroughly, but I had gotten new pads about a year and a half ago (the new pads don't feel as good as the old ones, it seems the rubber is different, maybe from age, but the original 60 pads had something great about the bounciness, but they were worn so they had to go).

Anyway, I clean the sensors with a little alcohol, and the pads with alcohol, then rubber renue, then alcohol on the bottom incase the rubber renue is bad for the pad sensors. On a whim I decided to check the little cellophane like connector that goes from the pad sensor to the circuitboard under the pad plate. the traces on it were a little tarnished and where they go into the receiving connector wasn't giving a good continuity reading. luckily I had a razor wheel on the table (like a pizza cutter but for fabrics I think, sharp enough to shave with) so I scraped the oxidation of the end tips of the traces ( about half a centimeter's worth) where they mate with the connector, very carefully of course. Very light scraping removed the brown corrosion and revealed a nice dull silver color.

the continuity then was solid as hell then, except on the far left trace. it had a section of about 2mm at the end tip that was somehow severed from the rest of the trace. I got the soldering iron out and carefully dragged a bit of molten solder across the trace until it was flat. Continuity passed, reassembled and put it back together and the problem was solved. At first I thought it might have been that a screw was loose but I think the trace was the problem. Funny how it was just on a whim that I checked it out, it's good to be thorough. So if any of your pads ever wig out, check that cellophane ribbon, but careful with any irons near them, if I got too close to the edge of the trace I would hear the plastic part crackle, it had to be quick slides across the trace so there was no heat build up.

I would advise anyone who is not willing to take resposibility for fuking up their 60 by accident not attempt this themselves, but if you have a pad issue it is something you can check out or show this to the tech and he or she will be able to follow what I'm saying.

I will not be responsible for any damage you do to your machines by following this advice correctly or incorrectly, but for those solder jedi
s among you this may prove useful.

NOTE: I did this all on myself, so don't take all of this for granted, ask the experienced members if you really got technical questions.

also removed "1" & "3", for drumpads, just remove "2"

I've got some pics, think they're pretty selfexplanatory



popped the trunk of mpc, the front side in the air 1 = full level/hihat glider board 2= drumpads
(3=(mkI) the -6- screws attaching the ill leather armrest! there can be a lot of dirt underneath it)



----



all the red dots are screws who need to be removed, the red lines indicate a ribbon that needs to be plugged out (I don't think the one at the right needs to be plugged out, you can gently shove the drumpadboard). Be gentle!



>>>close up (close to "1")



"1" removed



"1" & "2" removed



"2" removed: rubber pad + sensors + metal thing

If I take of one of those white wire things that connects to the green board do I need to solder it back on? I wanna clean my pads but I don't have any soldering tools.

No, you don;t pull the wires, you pull the plastic connector.

Careful, it doesn;t come off easy and breaking one of those wires will be a huge Pain in the ass.

So I all I have to do is gently snap it back into place? I was talking about the plastic thing. What I'm basicly saying is I can get to the pads with a screw driver and my bare hands and put everything back with the same tools?

yup, but be careful, and you should ask questions in separate threads, this is only for posting useful info.

while i have the digi cam and the MP opened up...



hope this helps.

highlife wrote:

Dirty 1200 wrote:this trick most of U all ready know about i think.
But anyway this is the only trick i now only works on the MPC60
so don't bother try this on the 2000 or 3000.

Go to sample edit and choose a sound (pref. a loop sound) then reverse the sound, while the MPC is processing the data, turn the data knob as a mad man! When the MPC is done processing, reverse it back agin.
Now the sample should sound a bit dirtyier/glitchy....

I know I spell like a 3 year old kid ....

i didn't notice any difference. what OS are you running?

I think dear old Dirty got this a bit wrong, u should hit the pad with the sound u wanna mess with while processing. U can do it over and over again and it just keeps getting worse.

^how many times do you hit the pad? one time? are there like different levels? like say one time for low 'gain', two for mid 'gain' and three times a charm for that extra grimey high 'gain.'

something along those lines? i don't have my MP at my fingaz at the moment to test it out.

thanks.

My pads had been stiff and sometimes misrepresented velocities.
http://www.rogerlinndesign.com/download ... nstall.pdf <--- shows you how to open an Akai mpc 60 mk 1 & 2 . Butcher ty for linking that , ty to elmacco for answering q's, and ty to florre for the pics -->http://mpc-forums.com/viewtopic.php?t=38454&highlight=pad+pads



Here is a picture of the part I need to remove. The thin green part and the silver metal part. The redish brownish board is conencted to the silver metal part and comes off with it.



Ta da


Top down chrom spinnin


grimey pad

pad sensor once i pealed away the grey rubber pads. There is a thin film /residue. I think the thin film is corroded rubber due to friction from striking the pad.


I rinsed the rubber pad under water and used a q-tip to go around the squares which got rid of filth. Then i put a paper towel down and one on top and pressed the paper towel into the grooves. Waited until it was dry then reinstalled. Pads feel softer and I have greater accuracy for velocity, and this took me about 2 hrs to do .