MPC 1K PADS TAKEN APART

tunde3001 wrote:Well i got the same message about the cost of the pads but they guy told me that i had to finnd sumone to fix the new pad into the MPC.cuz the work includes some soldering.

Does anyone know where i can fix or repair the MPC 1000 in England??? :

your house.

does anyone have any pics of a 'bad' pad taken apart?

some that detail what exactly causes them to screw up would be great. if someone knows this, an explanation would be cool too.

cheers

in a bad pad, the dark square of graphite has come loose from its place above the pad sensor. you can see where the glue was and should be, but in my case, that's why pads go bad.

this should be able to be fixed easily with the pad repair kit.

damn see this is the shht i dont like.

i just bought the 1k yesterday for a G. thats alot of dough to be spending on a cheaply made product.

akai should know better than that. theyve built solid equipment for years. and now they tryna short change me on the pads.

nah, don't worry. it's REALLY not as big a deal as people crack it up to be, half the time kids just want to blame their piss poor beats on bad pads...

thanks [samuraisam] for the info...

Antonym wrote:nah, don't worry. it's REALLY not as big a deal as people crack it up to be, half the time kids just want to blame their piss poor beats on bad pads...

co sign like a mf !! illest line for today!

Antonym wrote:in a bad pad, the dark square of graphite has come loose from its place above the pad sensor. you can see where the glue was and should be, but in my case, that's why pads go bad.

this should be able to be fixed easily with the pad repair kit.

ok mate cheers for the info. what is the graphite there for? if the sensors are piezo-electric, then surely just the rubber pounding on them would make them work?

edit: also, where is the square of graphite on the pics, is it on the sensor or the underside of the rubber pad itself? cheers

EMFinite wrote:damn see this is the shht i dont like.

i just bought the 1k yesterday for a G. thats alot of dough to be spending on a cheaply made product.

akai should know better than that. theyve built solid equipment for years. and now they tryna short change me on the pads.

What would you expect? Pay for a Volkswagen & getting a Rolls?

Akai still builds solid equipment if you've got the money for it.
The old MPC's were a lot more expensive when they were released.

also the earlier mpc screens lasted 1/10 as long as the screen in the 1000 will last.

I had my 2000xl for 5 years and the screen and pads never went.
You have to maintain your equipment. Don't bang em out. Treat em like your girl not like a biatch!! My 1000 is fine. I don't bang em I make love to em. (LOL)

r.5 wrote:

EMFinite wrote:damn see this is the shht i dont like.

i just bought the 1k yesterday for a G. thats alot of dough to be spending on a cheaply made product.

akai should know better than that. theyve built solid equipment for years. and now they tryna short change me on the pads.

What would you expect? Pay for a Volkswagen & getting a Rolls?

Akai still builds solid equipment if you've got the money for it.
The old MPC's were a lot more expensive when they were released.

nah yo the 2kxl isnt that much more than the xl ($700). so thats a bad example my dude. the only thing i expected to be different with the 1k and the xl is portability and some other things. THATS IT!!

BUT, not that it would be made with cheap parts.

PLUS wrote:I had my 2000xl for 5 years and the screen and pads never went.
You have to maintain your equipment. Don't bang em out. Treat em like your girl not like a biatch!! My 1000 is fine. I don't bang em I make love to em. (LOL)

If i was to bang my mpc like I bang my girl, I would need a new MPC, fvck the pads

Its like Plus says "You have to maintain your equipment." This applies with any equipment even outside of music making.

Mr modnaR wrote:

Antonym wrote:in a bad pad, the dark square of graphite has come loose from its place above the pad sensor. you can see where the glue was and should be, but in my case, that's why pads go bad.

this should be able to be fixed easily with the pad repair kit.

ok mate cheers for the info. what is the graphite there for? if the sensors are piezo-electric, then surely just the rubber pounding on them would make them work?

edit: also, where is the square of graphite on the pics, is it on the sensor or the underside of the rubber pad itself? cheers

In the pics, the carbon is where its supposed to be, glued over the sensor on the "light green" part of the housing. You can see the black square. In my case, when i opened it, the sensor was half way off the sensor, completly unglued from the sensor. I tried gluein it directly to the bottom of the pad like suggested by others but had a difficult time making it stick to the rubber. It was much easier to glue the four corners down like intended formin a mini bridge over the sensor. When you press the pad, it bends the bridge down till the bottom of the carbon sheet touches part of the sensor making the sound. Im glad i now know how to fix them so i dont have to worry everyday if my pads will need repairs if they go out. Ill just fix em myself.. If you take your time, and know exactly what screws to take out, and what to exspect, its very easy to fix your pads yourself, and put them back iin.

and all the electronics are in the pads of the 1000,in the others its just plastic. so its not really cheaper just different