??? for those who have replaced pads on their 1000.

...to any people out there who have opened up their 1000, how did you seperate the white clips from the circuit board, and also the ones from each individual pad.

i'm a bit sketched out on using too much force. do you grab the sides and pinch the connector when disconnecting it? is it the same for the pad connectors as well?


---------------------------
bottom of 16 pad circuit board






main connector





individual pad connector




---------------------------


i've done it before but i can't get any of them disconnected.
any help would be appreciated!

yes, all of those connecters come undone.

firstly disconnect the large connecter so you can seperate the pad board from the rest.

the little connecters for each pad come off easily, use your fingers or a set of pliers.

Just out of curiousity whats the difference with the replaceable pads? And where do you buy them? Also, punch can you post pics and experience after you replace them? Thanks and good luck with that

P E A C E

Big_K wrote:Just out of curiousity whats the difference with the replaceable pads? And where do you buy them? Also, punch can you post pics and experience after you replace them? Thanks and good luck with that

P E A C E

to add to that, can you post pics of a fuct up pad taken apart, if you have any, that is.

cheers

http://www.mpc-forums.com/viewtopic.php?t=39916

someone already did it.

A-right. So the only reason to change the pads are if they go bad? I was under the impression that there were better pads out there. Am I wrong?

sparq wrote:http://www.mpc-forums.com/viewtopic.php?t=39916

someone already did it.

cheers sparq, yeah i saw that thread, i think i posted on it too.

i'm not sure that was a 'bad' pad tho, cos what i've heard from someone else, is that something comes loose within the pad that makes it not work properly. that's kinda what i wanted to see, so we can work out why they go wrong, so we can figure out a solution, other than the thermal grease idea someone came up with.

After I had 4 defective pads replaced by VST. I use the full level function all the time now, and if I want something at different velocities i'll change it manually, or do the 16 levels velocity feature. So now i barely tap my pads hoping that it allow them to last alittle longer. but only time will tell.

samuraisam wrote:yes, all of those connecters come undone.

firstly disconnect the large connecter so you can seperate the pad board from the rest.

the little connecters for each pad come off easily, use your fingers or a set of pliers.

thanks for the replies. i know the connectors can come undone. i just wasn't sure if you grab the sides and apply pressure to get them out. thats what i've been trying but i feel like i'm one step away from ripping it out of the circuit board.



the only reason i am in this hell right now is cause my pads died, i tried the thermal grease and it only lasted for a little while. there is a little black piece of graphite that makes the contact for the sensor, and that joint ripped in half and was moving around freely within the pad, so that was the end of that.

...so now i have two pads that are completely shot. i just copped an mpd-16 and i can say it feels A MILLION times better. i have no clue why akai switched up the design on the 1000. the pads on the 1000 feel stiffer. kinda like huge pencil erasers. the mpd-16 pads remind me a bit more of the xl pads (they are softer and have some give to them).

well any way the main point of this is that while i am happy with the mpd16, the pads on my 1000 that went bad are the same ones you use to access the trim and load menus (pads 6 and 2).



this sht is retarded. so i'm kinda stuck until i switch these pads out with working ones (pads 11 and 4 are the only ones that dont have any alternate use).

this is annoying as hell.

bleh.

punchdrunk wrote:

samuraisam wrote:yes, all of those connecters come undone.

firstly disconnect the large connecter so you can seperate the pad board from the rest.

the little connecters for each pad come off easily, use your fingers or a set of pliers.

thanks for the replies. i know the connectors can come undone. i just wasn't sure if you grab the sides and apply pressure to get them out. thats what i've been trying but i feel like i'm one step away from ripping it out of the circuit board.



the only reason i am in this hell right now is cause my pads died, i tried the thermal grease and it only lasted for a little while. there is a little black piece of graphite that makes the contact for the sensor, and that joint ripped in half and was moving around freely within the pad, so that was the end of that.

...so now i have two pads that are completely shot. i just copped an mpd-16 and i can say it feels A MILLION times better. i have no clue why akai switched up the design on the 1000. the pads on the 1000 feel stiffer. kinda like huge pencil erasers. the mpd-16 pads remind me a bit more of the xl pads (they are softer and have some give to them).

well any way the main point of this is that while i am happy with the mpd16, the pads on my 1000 that went bad are the same ones you use to access the trim and load menus (pads 6 and 2).



this sht is retarded. so i'm kinda stuck until i switch these pads out with working ones (pads 11 and 4 are the only ones that dont have any alternate use).

this is annoying as hell.

bleh.

if you get them out, could you post some pics of the faulty pads, please? try and show what breaks on them to stop them working. cheers.

people, one day, they are going to stop producing these pads, and we're all going to be stuck. yes yes i know we can update to the 1500 when it comes out, which will have better pads, but you know, we must be able to do something, right?

Check your pm!